Brave New World

Thanks to two new pubs, San Francisco is finally coming into its own as a beer town.

Last year, in this same column, I asked whether San Francisco could hold its own in the beer world. Certainly, we have such  breweries as Anchor Brewing Company and Speakeasy to call our own, and Magnolia and Thirsty Bear are top-notch brewpubs. But as for beer bars? Beyond Toronado in the Lower Haight—which will always be king—there’s been shockingly little to choose from. 

But I’m happy to report that SF is on its way to holding its suds. Two new, and very significant, additions to the local beer scene opened within days of each other, coincidentally, a few months back. Monk’s Kettle occupies a prime location in the Mission, on 16th Between Guerrero and Valencia, while La Trappe strategically presides over a cable-car stop in North Beach. Both bring an expertise to a vast selection of imports. Now, I know that there’s nothing better than a super-fresh local brew. But the world of beer is wide and  diverse, and well worth looking into. 

Monk’s Kettle—founded by Christian Albertson, who used to work at a brewery in Colorado, and Seattle financier Nat Cutler—specializes in beers of the world, with a focus on European and domestic offerings. (The partners met through their wives, who attended college together in the Bay Area.) Albertson had moved here from Boston a few years ago and noticed the lack of beer culture. “You think about this being such a great area for beer,” he said on a recent busy night behind the bar, “so I was shocked that  there were no bars like this already here.” In January 2007, Cutler and his wife, Theresa, moved down from Seattle, and Albertson and Cutler worked at Zuni Cafe while they sought a location for their venture. 

The centerpiece at Monk’s Kettle isn’t the lacquered-wood bar, but the 24 beers on tap and the multipage, lovingly annotated beer list; it’s good reading for even a casual enthusiast. The food, served nightly until 1 a.m., goes beyond pretzels and schnitzels, and includes beer-pairing suggestions for every dish, from the pan-seared goat cheese (German hefeweizen) to the pulled-pork  sandwich (coffee porter).

Much of the Monk’s Kettle menu is devoted to Belgian ales, but La Trappe dedicates its entire bar to this galaxy of heady and exotic brews. Opened by another pair of friends— San Franciscan Michael Azzalini and Englishman John  Lawton—La Trappe has an undistinguished-looking restaurant above and a secret-hideout kind of brick-walled beer den in the basement (as Azzalini points out, it’s “the exact layout of many places in Belgium”).  Having been inspired by Belgian gastronomic culture while studying abroad, Azzalini converted the building his family has owned since 1928 to make room for his dream. 

La Trappe’s list is huge, with 113 Belgians out of 138 total beers, many with their own uniquely shaped glass. There’s also a menu of Belgian specialties, including rabbit stew, mussels in beer and, of course, frites. “The recipes are as authentic as you can get,” says Azzalini, who cribbed many of them from his Belgian ex-girlfriend’s family. “We’re trying to be as true to Belgian taste and custom as you can be.” Given the enthusiasm of the crowd of Belgian-beer geeks sitting at the bar the night I visited, he’s nailed it.

WHAT TO DRINK


1. Moa Lager, New Zealand
This gem, brand-new to the market, grabbed Christian Albertson, who says, “It’s one of the best lagers I’ve ever tasted in my life.” Bottle-fermented and conditioned, the slightly cloudy beer has incredible complexity for a lager, mingling flavors of honey and citrus with a luscious, yeasty maltiness. Available at Monk’s Kettle.

2. Schneider Edelweisse, Germany
Too often, wheat beers are simple and light—the style seemingly an excuse to make something vapid. Not this one. With heady aromas from banana to mint to white flowers, this organic German beer has the substance and depth to play on the same stage as any Belgian ale. Available at Monk’s Kettle.

3. Orval, Belgium
Unique among Belgian monk-brewed ales, this is light, hoppy and almost austerely dry. Though the monastery goes back to the 12th century, the beer in its current form has been produced since 1931. It makes a tasty aperitif. Available at La Trappe.

4. Fantôme Saison, Belgium
With a deep, golden color, this farmhouse ale has aromas of spice and citrus. The mouth feel is crisp, but a bit fuller than most saisons. Flavors of pepper, coriander and apple make this beer very drinkable. Available at both Monk’s Kettle and La Trappe.

Last year, in this same column, I asked whether San Francisco could hold its own in the beer world. Certainly, we have such  breweries as Anchor Brewing Company and Speakeasy to call our own, and Magnolia and Thirsty Bear are top-notch brewpubs. But as for beer bars? Beyond Toronado in the Lower Haight—which will always be king—there’s been shockingly little to choose from. 

But I’m happy to report that SF is on its way to holding its suds. Two new, and very significant, additions to the local beer scene opened within days of each other, coincidentally, a few months back. Monk’s Kettle occupies a prime location in the Mission, on 16th Between Guerrero and Valencia, while La Trappe strategically presides over a cable-car stop in North Beach. Both bring an expertise to a vast selection of imports. Now, I know that there’s nothing better than a super-fresh local brew. But the world of beer is wide and  diverse, and well worth looking into. 

Monk’s Kettle—founded by Christian Albertson, who used to work at a brewery in Colorado, and Seattle financier Nat Cutler—specializes in beers of the world, with a focus on European and domestic offerings. (The partners met through their wives, who attended college together in the Bay Area.) Albertson had moved here from Boston a few years ago and noticed the lack of beer culture. “You think about this being such a great area for beer,” he said on a recent busy night behind the bar, “so I was shocked that  there were no bars like this already here.” In January 2007, Cutler and his wife, Theresa, moved down from Seattle, and Albertson and Cutler worked at Zuni Cafe while they sought a location for their venture. 

The centerpiece at Monk’s Kettle isn’t the lacquered-wood bar, but the 24 beers on tap and the multipage, lovingly annotated beer list; it’s good reading for even a casual enthusiast. The food, served nightly until 1 a.m., goes beyond pretzels and schnitzels, and includes beer-pairing suggestions for every dish, from the pan-seared goat cheese (German hefeweizen) to the pulled-pork  sandwich (coffee porter).

Much of the Monk’s Kettle menu is devoted to Belgian ales, but La Trappe dedicates its entire bar to this galaxy of heady and exotic brews. Opened by another pair of friends— San Franciscan Michael Azzalini and Englishman John  Lawton—La Trappe has an undistinguished-looking restaurant above and a secret-hideout kind of brick-walled beer den in the basement (as Azzalini points out, it’s “the exact layout of many places in Belgium”).  Having been inspired by Belgian gastronomic culture while studying abroad, Azzalini converted the building his family has owned since 1928 to make room for his dream. 

La Trappe’s list is huge, with 113 Belgians out of 138 total beers, many with their own uniquely shaped glass. There’s also a menu of Belgian specialties, including rabbit stew, mussels in beer and, of course, frites. “The recipes are as authentic as you can get,” says Azzalini, who cribbed many of them from his Belgian ex-girlfriend’s family. “We’re trying to be as true to Belgian taste and custom as you can be.” Given the enthusiasm of the crowd of Belgian-beer geeks sitting at the bar the night I visited, he’s nailed it.

WHAT TO DRINK


1. Moa Lager, New Zealand
This gem, brand-new to the market, grabbed Christian Albertson, who says, “It’s one of the best lagers I’ve ever tasted in my life.” Bottle-fermented and conditioned, the slightly cloudy beer has incredible complexity for a lager, mingling flavors of honey and citrus with a luscious, yeasty maltiness. Available at Monk’s Kettle.

2. Schneider Edelweisse, Germany
Too often, wheat beers are simple and light—the style seemingly an excuse to make something vapid. Not this one. With heady aromas from banana to mint to white flowers, this organic German beer has the substance and depth to play on the same stage as any Belgian ale. Available at Monk’s Kettle.

3. Orval, Belgium
Unique among Belgian monk-brewed ales, this is light, hoppy and almost austerely dry. Though the monastery goes back to the 12th century, the beer in its current form has been produced since 1931. It makes a tasty aperitif. Available at La Trappe.

4. Fantôme Saison, Belgium
With a deep, golden color, this farmhouse ale has aromas of spice and citrus. The mouth feel is crisp, but a bit fuller than most saisons. Flavors of pepper, coriander and apple make this beer very drinkable. Available at both Monk’s Kettle and La Trappe.

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