Like mushrooms after a rain, restaurants and wine bars are springing up all over Dogpatch, the up-and-coming industrial neighborhood off Third Street. The latest, Serpentine (named for the bedrock upon which the building sits), has followed on the heels of Piccino and Yield, and, as the second venture from the Slow Club team, it seems almost preordained for success. The two restaurants share some common threads: Both are located in out-of-the-way locations in concrete-chic spaces, the beloved Slow Club burger appears on both menus and talented 25-year-old chef Chris Kronner (pictured above) is at the helm of each. The mantra of the place—“Honest food. Classic cocktails”—is largely a vision realized, and Kronner’s ideas about what constitutes honest food seem right in line with our own: a savory bread pudding shot through with nettles and Swiss cheese; greaseless fried oysters and hush puppies with pimenton aïoli for dipping; and a butter-lettuce salad topped with tiny, snappy shrimp, crisp slivers of fried artichoke and boiled potatoes, all dressed up in lemon aïoli. Add expertly mixed cocktails, such as pitch-perfect manhattans, and it’s obvious what’s happened here: Serpentine has answered the neighborhood’s call.
Serpentine 2495 Third St., 415-252-2000
Like mushrooms after a rain, restaurants and wine bars are springing up all over Dogpatch, the up-and-coming industrial neighborhood off Third Street. The latest, Serpentine (named for the bedrock upon which the building sits), has followed on the heels of Piccino and Yield, and, as the second venture from the Slow Club team, it seems almost preordained for success. The two restaurants share some common threads: Both are located in out-of-the-way locations in concrete-chic spaces, the beloved Slow Club burger appears on both menus and talented 25-year-old chef Chris Kronner (pictured above) is at the helm of each. The mantra of the place—“Honest food. Classic cocktails”—is largely a vision realized, and Kronner’s ideas about what constitutes honest food seem right in line with our own: a savory bread pudding shot through with nettles and Swiss cheese; greaseless fried oysters and hush puppies with pimenton aïoli for dipping; and a butter-lettuce salad topped with tiny, snappy shrimp, crisp slivers of fried artichoke and boiled potatoes, all dressed up in lemon aïoli. Add expertly mixed cocktails, such as pitch-perfect manhattans, and it’s obvious what’s happened here: Serpentine has answered the neighborhood’s call.
Serpentine 2495 Third St., 415-252-2000
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