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The Italian Job

Fish tales in Noe Valley.


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Credits: Mitch Tobias

North Beach, eat your heart out: Some of the most interesting new Italian joints are way down south, on a stretch of Church Street in Noe Valley. Of course, Chris Cosentino’s been dazzling us with his diehard authenticity at Incanto for years, but this past spring, La Ciccia started serving Sardinian fare, such as fresh pasta topped with bottarga and cauliflower, five blocks south. Midway between the two, Joseph Manzare’s Pescheria is bringing a rustic Italian sensibility to seafood, with such dishes as baked stuffed clams, halibut baked in parchment and lemon-marinated tuna with cranberry beans. Maybe Church is becoming the new Columbus—sans the tourists.

Pescheria 1708 Church St., 415-647-3200

North Beach, eat your heart out: Some of the most interesting new Italian joints are way down south, on a stretch of Church Street in Noe Valley. Of course, Chris Cosentino’s been dazzling us with his diehard authenticity at Incanto for years, but this past spring, La Ciccia started serving Sardinian fare, such as fresh pasta topped with bottarga and cauliflower, five blocks south. Midway between the two, Joseph Manzare’s Pescheria is bringing a rustic Italian sensibility to seafood, with such dishes as baked stuffed clams, halibut baked in parchment and lemon-marinated tuna with cranberry beans. Maybe Church is becoming the new Columbus—sans the tourists.

Pescheria 1708 Church St., 415-647-3200


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