All-American with a Twist

A Marina mainstay gets a face-lift.

It’s amazing what some crystal-dripping chandeliers can do: Cozmo’s, in the Marina, once best known for its singles scene, has been reinvented as Circa with the help of a revamped gold-and-sage interior by Michael Brennan. The food takes itself more seriously now too. Chef Erik Hopfinger’s appetizers are twists on all-American: “Tater tots” are given a filling of Dungeness crab, foie gras is seared and served with peanut-butter brioche and huckleberry jam for the ultimate PB&J and mac-and-cheese gets lobster and truffles. Entrées have international flavor, such as rosy Moroccan-spiced lamb “lollichops.” For those who worry that the meet-and-greet scene is neglected at the new digs, you can still find cocktails and attractive blondes at the central square-shaped bar.

Circa 2001 Chestnut St., 415-351-0175.

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