Be a Critic: Presenting the winning entry in our 2007 restaurant-review contest

A Star is Reborn: A beloved Moroccan spot makes its comeback.

Not to sound like I’m borrowing a line from Andy Rooney, but there are few people in this world that I really trust when it comes to restaurant recommendations. But my “eat-here-tonight, you-won’t-be-disappointed” short list continues to include Uncle Woof and Aunt Sue. Frequent travelers, foodies, opera aficionados—all in all, Renaissance people—they know a good thing when they eat it. 

Last fall, one of Unk and Sue’s tips led my girlfriend and me to Jones Street, in the thick of the Tenderloin. After selecting a decent-looking Sauvignon Blanc from the cleanest of the liquor stores on the block, we walked through the door of Tajine, a tiny Moroccan restaurant. Toting alcohol into a restaurant always makes me a bit nervous, like I’m sneaking my personal box of Junior Mints into a movie theater, but we were greeted with a big smile from the massive chef-owner, Mohamed Ghaleb. Sitting at one of the small tables, we listened to him rap joyously in French to a group of fellow diners across the room. It all felt foreign but inviting, and rather beatnik.

We started off with the vegetarian bastilla, described as “baked phyllo dough stuffed with sweet vegetables, raisins and topped with powdered sugar and cinnamon.” Initially it sounded like dessert, but one bite revealed phyllo dough just dense enough to retain the warmth of the fresh vegetables inside, yet the crust nearly melted in my mouth. The dusting of sugar and cinnamon worked wonders with our white wine.

Following that came the lamb tagine. The tender meat, prunes and roasted almonds all basked in the most flavorful sauce I’ve ever tasted. The homemade Moroccan bread was perfect for sopping up the remains.

But should you be heading out to the Tenderloin as you read this, take note: When we stood up to leave, Mohamed mentioned that he would soon be closing and planned to reopen on Polk Street early in 2007.

Luckily for us, that time has nearly come. 

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