Taking Root

Palmetto finds a home on Union.

Chef Andy Kitko’s résumé includes stints at Aqua and Gary Danko, but his true SF debut came when he helped open Bar Tartine, as the restaurant’s first—and very well-received—chef. For his latest gig, he can be seen working at the sophisticated Palmetto (it replaced the old Home on Union Street in July). The moniker might imply glass-and-mauve Miami, but the narrow, modern restaurant, redesigned by Cass Calder Smith, is actually named after the 140-year-old palm tree that shades the entryway. The cocktail-and-wine list comes courtesy of sommelier Alan Murray (formerly of Masa’s), while dinner is decidedly Kitko: unprecious Mediterranean with a tiny Moroccan bent. Small plates include mussels with merguez sausage and sardines with caponata, while a main course of salmon marinated in yogurt comes with tabbouleh and cumin-scented carrots. Save room—not only for desserts, such as a Basque gâteau with plums, but for brunch, which is served every weekend.

Palmetto 2032 Union St., 415-931-5006

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