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Head of the Class

At Kokkari, chef Erik Cosselmon gives 7x7 editor Sara Deseran a behind-the-scenes lesson in making his delicious pikti (Greek headcheese)—starting with the whole hog.

photography by Stefanie Michejda

posted on November 27, 2007

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Greek Headcheese (Pikti)
Brightened with fresh dill and chopped green onions, this recipe is the Greek version of headcheese that Erik Cosselmon serves at Kokkari. Insta Cure No. 1 can be purchased at sausagemaker.com. If you don’t have a pot large enough to hold an entire pig’s head, you can cut the recipe down by two and use half a head, freezing the other half. (Warning: This could freak out family members or roommates that share your kitchen.) There’s no need to add any extra salt to this recipe, since the pig’s head is brined first. At Kokkari, Cosselmon uses synthetic cooked-salami casings to stuff the head cheese, but at home he sets it in a non-reactive loaf pan or two to three small bowls. The natural gelatin sets the headcheese.

Brine:
1 pig’s head, about 20 pounds
2 1/2 gallons water
2 1/2 pounds sea salt
12 ounces sugar
1/2 cup Insta Cure No. 1

Split the pig’s head in half lengthwise. In a large pot, take 1 gallon of water to boil with the salt, sugar and Insta Cure No. 1. Remove from heat and add the remaining 1 1/2 gallons of water mixed with ice. When completely chilled add the pig head. Place in the refrigerator and brine for 3 to 5 days. Remove from the brine.

Simmer:
Water to cover
1 tablespoon garlic powder
20 whole peppercorns
20 bay leaves
2 teaspoons ground allspice
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
1/4 cup mustard seeds

Add the head to a combination of water, garlic powder, peppercorns, bay leaves, allspice, nutmeg and mustard seeds and simmer until tender, about five hours. Remove from the heat; leave the head in the liquid and handle when cool. Set aside the broth to use later. Remove and discard the bones, fat, eyes and any black bits. Use the meat, skin, brain and snout.

Mix:
2 to 3 tablespoons strong red wine vinegar
2 large bunches chopped dill, chopped
2 bunches green onions, chopped

In a large bowl, gently fold the herbs and vinegar into the meat (be careful not to brake it up too much). Taste it; there should be a good amount of salt from the brine and the vinegar should cut the taste of the fat. Warm the broth again and skim the fat from it; add about a cup back to the meat so it’s like a stew. Spoon everything into a salami casing, a loaf pan or a few small bowls. Chill overnight. Serve the headcheese at room temperature or cold, on toast or hearty bread with mustard. It can also be good pan-seared with an egg on top.

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