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No matter how you fry them—or poach them or coddle them—eggs are, clearly, no longer just fodder for Moons Over My Hammy. While farmers market patrons are still patiently waiting in line to pay top dollar for a farm-fresh dozen of chicken eggs, it appears to be the duck’s day in restaurant kitchens. Slightly larger, with vibrant, perky, extra-rich yolks, duck eggs are an easy way to up the ante with anything savory (but also do try them in a sweet custard). At Absinthe, they amp up a frisée salad with lardons; at Silk’s, they’ve been deep-fried like tempura; and at the Alembic, they’re deviled to delicious effect. Once the novelty of the duck has worn off, we’re guessing the goose is next.
No matter how you fry them—or poach them or coddle them—eggs are, clearly, no longer just fodder for Moons Over My Hammy. While farmers market patrons are still patiently waiting in line to pay top dollar for a farm-fresh dozen of chicken eggs, it appears to be the duck’s day in restaurant kitchens. Slightly larger, with vibrant, perky, extra-rich yolks, duck eggs are an easy way to up the ante with anything savory (but also do try them in a sweet custard). At Absinthe, they amp up a frisée salad with lardons; at Silk’s, they’ve been deep-fried like tempura; and at the Alembic, they’re deviled to delicious effect. Once the novelty of the duck has worn off, we’re guessing the goose is next.
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