Posted on September 27, 2006

A simple serving platter of freshly baked gougères ready for guests to enjoy with their cocktails.

Gougères

Gougères are the perfect combination of a crusty, caramelized outside and a soft, eggy inside. They can be made ahead of time and eaten at room temperature or recrisped in a very hot oven just before serving. Typically they are served as little bites with predinner drinks or as a light snack, but you can also make them larger and fill them with meat, cheese, or greens for a satisfying meal. At Tartine, we serve these in the larger size all morning, batch after batch coming hot from the oven, as a great savory alternative to the sweet breakfast pastries. Here, I have made small ones that are good for hors d’oeuvres or snacks, and I have also included a variation for making four-inch ones.

You make these featherweight puffs from one of the most versatile doughs in the pastry kitchen: pâte à choux, or choux paste. It is the same dough that you use to make éclair shells, profiterole shells, cream puffs, and some doughnuts. Here, the choux paste is flavored with black pepper, Gruyère cheese, and thyme, although you may use Cheddar, Swiss, or pecorino and any herb you prefer. You may also vary the flavors by adding the caramelized onions or duxelles (sautéed minced mushroom with shallot). The dough is forgiving, so that you can add almost anything to it and it will work. The pastries taste best if they are eaten the day they are baked.

“To spice up the standard gougère, I like to add a tablespoon of Spanish pimentón (smoked paprika). The pimentón gives the gougère a lovely, smoky flavor and a beautiful sienna color.” —Elisabeth Prueitt, Tartine Bakery

Choux paste
Nonfat milk 1 1/4 cups/10 fluid ounces/310 ml
Unsalted butter 10 tablespoons/5 ounces/140 g
Salt 1 teaspoon/5 ml
All-purpose flour 1 cup/5 ounces/140 g
Large eggs 5
Gruyère cheese, grated 3/4 cup/4 ounces/115 g

Black pepper, freshly ground 1 teaspoon/5 ml
Fresh thyme, minced 1 tablespoon/15 ml

Topping
Large egg 1
Salt pinch
Grated Gruyère cheese for sprinkling

Yield: about thirty 1 1/2-inch hors d'oeuvres

Kitchen Notes: Don’t be tempted to use whole milk in this recipe. Because of the amount of butter and cheese, the batter is rich and the whole milk will cause the larger-sized gougères to fall. If you do not have nonfat milk, use half water and half whole milk. If you don’t have any milk at all, water alone works well. You can form the pastries on the baking sheet, place the pan in the freezer until the pastries are frozen, and then transfer them to an airtight container and return them to the freezer for up to 1 month. You can bake them straight from the freezer on a buttered or parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush the tops lightly with egg wash made by beating a whole egg, and increase the baking time by about 10 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter a baking sheet or line with parchment paper.

To make the choux paste, combine the milk, butter, and salt in a heavy saucepan and place over medium heat until the butter melts and the mixture comes to a full boil. Add the flour all at once, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon. Keep stirring until the mixture has formed a smooth mass and pulls away from the sides of the pan and some of the moisture has evaporated. This will take about 3 minutes.

Transfer the paste to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or to a heatproof mixing bowl. If using a mixer, add the eggs one at a time and mix on medium speed, incorporating each egg before adding the next. When all the eggs have been added, the mixture will be very thick, smooth, and shiny. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand, add the cheese, pepper, and thyme, and mix in with a rubber spatula. If making by hand, add the eggs one at a time to the bowl and mix with a wooden spoon, incorporating each egg before adding the next one, then proceed as directed for the mixer method.

Transfer the contents of the bowl to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch (no. 6 or 7) plain tip, adding only as much to the bag as is comfortable to work with. Pipe 1-inch mounds onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 1 1/2 inches apart. Or, use a spoon to drop the dough in 1-inch mounds.

In a small bowl, whisk together the egg and salt, and then gently brush the top of each pastry with the egg wash. Lightly sprinkle the top of each pastry with a little cheese.

Place the pastries in the oven immediately and bake until they have puffed, are nicely browned, and feel light for their size, about 25 minutes. These are delicious served hot or warm, or are also good at room temperature. Or, let cool completely, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to few days, and recrisp in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes.

Large-Sized Gougères Variation: To make 4-inch gougères, use a large spoon to form 3-inch rounds about 1 inch high on the prepared baking sheet, spacing them about 2 inches apart. Brush with the egg wash and top with the cheese. Bake until they have puffed, are light for their size, and are golden brown, 35 to 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and poke a small hole in the side of each pastry to allow steam to escape.

Releasing the steam keeps them from collapsing (this step is unnecessary for the small ones). If splitting and filling, let cool to room temperature; otherwise, they may be served hot, warm, or at room temperature. Makes 8 to 10 pastries.

Reprinted with permission from Tartine by Elisabeth M. Pruiett and Chad Robertson, Chronicle Books, Copyright 2006