Laïola

(Marina)
2031 Chestnut St.  
415-346-5641 Map it
www.laiola.com

$$-$$$
Spanish
bar scene, dine at the bar, notable chef, notable wine list

SCENE: Brought to us by the owners of Frisson, this understated Spanish restaurant has a gleaming copper-clad bar at its center and a menu of approachable, sharable, plates, each about half the size of a traditional entrée. The place doesn’t accept reservations, but a chalkboard waiting list democratizes the seating process.

EATS: It’s rare to find good Spanish food in the city, but Laïola seems the possess the magic forumla. From the first bite of patatas bravas to the last swig of Albariño, it succeeds in celebrating the rich food culture of Spain. The almost–all–Spanish wine list, 100 bottles strong, showcases unusual varietals from around the country, perfectly complementing the regional food, including a rustic dish of chickpeas with house–made blood sausage, snappy shrimp sautéed with garlic and peppers and—in summer and early fall—”tomàquet,” a slice of grilled bread rubbed with garlic and topped with the season’s best tomatoes. Cute, affable waiters (sporting tool belt aprons) and expertly mixed cocktails seal the deal.