Sens

(Embarcadero)
4 Embarcadero Center  
415-362-0645 Map it
www.sens-sf.com

$$-$$$
Mediterranean
fine dining, good for groups, great desserts, open kitchen, quiet, view

SCENE: The cavernous space that has played host over the years to Monte Cristo and, before that, Splendido, has been reborn (again) as Sens. The rustic room, with wooden doors, heavy beams and a vaguely Mediterranean feel, also has a brilliant only-in–San Francisco view of the Ferry Building’s red neon sign.

EATS: The food here is Cal-Med by way of North Africa—hot spices and robust lamb preparations, from foie-gras-stuffed meatballs to skinny merguez sausages and Flinstonian chops, are well-represented—we’re also fans of the flatbread topped with long-cooked greens and crescenza cheese. Desserts employ savory ingredients to great effect—chocolate cake is surrounded by a silky chocolate sauce and a scoop of cardamom ice cream. A bit cerebral, maybe, but sweet just the same.