Orson

(SoMa)
508 Fourth St.  
415-777-1508 Map it
www.orsonsf.com

$$-$$$
bar scene, dine at the bar, good for groups, late-night dining, notable chef, open 7 days, private dining or party space

SCENE: Housed in a remodeled SoMa warehouse that still retains much of its gritty charm, this restaurant—the latest project from longtime SF food-scene fixture Elizabeth Falkner, owner of Citizen Cake—is an edgy showcase for modern decor (the double-decker space has a bona fide catwalk) and envelope-pushing food.

EATS: Throw out all preconceptions about what a restaurant meal should be. Here, the focus is on globally influenced small plates with a touch of whimsy. Pop Rocks make an appearance, alongside tempura-fried soft-boiled eggs and desserts made from blue potatoes; celery and rhubarb find their way into cocktails. Disorienting, perhaps, but delightfully unconventional too.