Pagan

(Outer Richmond)
3199 Clement St.  
415-751-2598 Map it

$-$$
cheap eats, fine dining, good for groups, take-out

SCENE: This less-than-charmed location on the far reaches of Clement Street has housed its fair share of Asian restaurants over the years. The latest reincarnation is the best yet: The room has been renovated, making it bigger and brighter, and the walls are a warm orange. The charming servers are eager and friendly.

EATS: Owned by a Burmese couple who came to San Francisco by way of a lengthy stopover in Thailand, Pagan offers a menu neatly divided in two: half Thai dishes, half Burmese. Fans of Burma Superstar will recognize the tea-leaf salad, samusa soup (which fiercely rivals the one at Superstar) and pumpkin-and-pork stew. From the Thai side of the menu, the crispy tofu and lime-drenched larb are good choices.