Pastores

(Mission)
3486 Mission St.  
415-642-5385 Map it

$-$$
Mexican
breakfast, brunch, cheap eats, family style, kid-friendly, lunch

SCENE: Despite this neighborhood restaurant’s off-the-beaten-track location (where Cortland and Mission streets intersect) and notoriously unpredictable hours, those willing to put up with these idiosyncrasies will be rewarded with superior Mexican food cooked and served by owner Irma Calderon.

EATS: Brunch-goers have trouble ordering anything other than the superb chilaquiles, but the truth is that everything here is terrific, from the chiles rellenos to the sautéed chicken, topped with chiles and crumbled cotija cheese. The menu changes according to Calderon’s whims, but not to worry: It’s all good.