Bocadillos

(Jackson Square)
710 Montgomery St.  
415-982-2622 Map it
www.bocasf.com

$$
Spanish
breakfast, business lunch, cheap eats, notable wine list, take-out

SCENE: At chef Gerald Hirigoyen’s modern little tapas spot, diners sit elbow-to-elbow along the lacquered blond-wood bar that takes up the back of the room or in Eames-eque chairs at the communal table. You might be a minute’s walk from North Beach, but the mood is purely Barcelona.

EATS: Expect to struggle with the fact that you’ll want everything on the menu. Luckily, it’s all meant to be shared. Calamari, served with romesco sauce, is fried to a delicate crunch; white anchovies, olives, mushrooms and artichokes are speared with a toothpick, pintxos-style; snapper ceviche is served with pears and gently sprinkled with Thai chili. A smartly edited wine list offers 32 selections by the glass.