Canteen

(TenderNob)
817 Sutter St.  
4159288870 Map it
www.canteensf.com

$$$
California
brunch, business lunch, dine at the bar, hotel, lunch, notable chef, open kitchen, romantic, theater district

SCENE: With a small pes-green counter and a few snug booths, this former coffee shop is where you’ll find Dennis Leary (formerly of Rubicon) dishing out lunch and dinner. Everyone from foodies to curious lodgers from the adjacent Commodore Hotel comes to watch the talented chef cook up a storm from the minuscule open kitchen. At his whim, the soundtrack shifts from the Beatles to Motorhead.

EATS: Despite the setting, the vibrant and creative food is far from diner grub. An amuse-bouche arrives before such dishes as the signature steak tartare, piquant with capers and served with homemade potato chips, or a comforting blanquette de veau with artichokes. For dessert, the made-to-order vanilla soufflé is whipped up in front of you. During the week, you can pick up breakfast treats and lunch from Leary's newest spot, The Sentinel.