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SCENE: Now under the watchful eye of Laurent Manrique (together with chef de cuisine Jennie Lorenzo), this fine-dining restaurant on the fifth floor of the Hotel Palomar has undergone a complete makeover—gone are the aubergine drapes and zebra-print carpet of yore, replaced with moderne club chairs and large-format photographs of Manrique’s native Gascony. The quiet, understated room is perfect for a romantic night out.
EATS: Historically, Fifth Floor served high-end California cuisine, but with Manrique’s arrival the focus has shifted to include flavors from his native southwestern France. Duck, foie gras and Armagnac figure heavily on the menu but are showcased in modern, refined preparations, including an inspired take on garbure, which is a traditional Gascon dish similar to cassoulet, and a glorious version of the region’s stalwart dessert, cannelés, served with Armagnac-prune ice cream. The tableside bread and cheese carts are exceptional.
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