Silks

(Financial District)
222 Sansome St., 2nd Flr.  
415-276-9888 Map it
www.mandarinoriental.com

$$$$
Contemporary American
breakfast, brunch, business lunch, fine dining, good for groups, hotel, lunch, notable wine list, open 7 days, romantic, valet parking

SCENE: Even though it opened in 1987, Silks was a secret for years, hidden on the second floor of the Mandarin Oriental hotel. Businesspeople and travelers rub elbows in the dining room, which is decked out in warm tones of gold and burnt orange and accented with hand-painted silk chandeliers and decorations meant to evoke Marco Polo’s journey to Cathay.

EATS: Though notable chef Joel Huff left the restaurant this July, the same tradition of excellence is being maintained (while a permanent replacement is being sought) by hotel's executive chef and food & beverage director, Milan Drager. Expect imaginative Asian-inspired fusion dishes in three- and four-course menus. Yellowfin tuna sashimi gets a slick of ponzu-truffle vinaigrette and a mist of feta foam, while glistening sea scallops shine in a salad of glass noodles and pomelo. Standout entrées include the fragrant lobster and shellfish coconut-broth tom yum, brought to the table in a dramatic parchment-paper cone, and venison katsu accompanied by an airy Japanese pumpkin soufflé. Instead of attempting to navigate the extensive wine list, opt for the spot-on wine pairings for each course.