Coi

(North Beach)
373 Broadway  
415-393-9000 Map it

$$$$
California
fine dining, good for groups, notable chef, prix-fixe menu, romantic

SCENE: Despite its unexpected location—just steps from the strip club Centerfolds—chef Daniel Patterson’s Coi is as serene as its name (pronounced “kwa,” it’s French for “tranquil”). The interior, designed by Scott Kester and influenced by a modern Japanese aesthetic, is minimalist: A narrow lounge leads to a windowless, nine-table dining room lined with banquettes in tones of chocolate, tan and cream that has the feeling of dining in a luxury private jet.

EATS: Guests can order à la carte within a four-course dinner menu ($75) or try a set 11-course tasting menu ($105). Patterson’s artful twists are subtle: Picture-perfect raw scallops are simply dressed with Meyer lemon, McEvoy olive oil and sel gris, then strewn with flower petals and avocado shavings, while his signature sautéed sea bream with braised lettuce and pork belly gets a hint of citrus from fragrant litsea cubeba (exotic verbena) oil. Desserts include a sweet-and-sticky Medjool-date terrine with Vietnamese-coffee ice cream.