La Provence

(Mission)
1001 Guerrero St.  
415-643-4333 Map it
www.laprovencerestaurant.net

Dinner only
$$$
French
brunch, dine at the bar, good for groups, outdoor dining, romantic

SCENE: One of the few authentically French places in town not owned by someone named Rigo or Bulow (the patron is Lionel LaFite, a native of Aix-en-Provence and onetime competitive cyclist), this sunny corner restaurant is like something out of a Marcel Pagnol film: golden walls with peach trim, simple wooden tables and enormous vintage French posters featuring words like “pastis” and “Marseilles.” The only thing missing is the buzz of cicadas in the air.

EATS: Look for such Provençal classics as pissaladière, an open-faced caramelized-onion tart with roasted red peppers and anchovies, or sliced leg of lamb, served au jus with thyme (both in the jus and as a literally smoldering garnish), or roast rabbit in a honey-lavender reduction finished with Noilly Prat vermouth (from Marseilles, of course). Lavender often reappears in the crème brûlée.