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SCENE: A virtual shoebox of a space, this sushi joint is part of a growing number of restaurants lighting up the Tenderloin with good food. Despite its modest prices, Red Box looks slick, complete with geek-cool anime movies projected silently on the back wall. The sushi chef doubles as a waiter, taking orders and then running back to the kitchen to create them.
EATS: Because of the ordering system, be prepared to wait for your sushi. When it arrives, it’s well executed. It seems every table is demolishing a plate of the firecracker balls (spicy tuna rolled in panko, deep fried and served with a kicky sauce). The rolls are the most fun: Try the red-box version (filled with hamachi and wrapped in salmon) or the special of the day, which, if you’re lucky, might be a salmon and salmon-skin roll that’s a perfect combination of crisp and rich.
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