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SCENE: Antica feels just like a trattoria in Rome. It’s decidedly untrendy, with walls sponge-painted in earth tones and a hostess who walks from table to table greeting everyone like regulars. The 10-year-old spot is owned by chef Ruggero Gadaldi, who also owns nearby Pesce and Last Supper Club in the Mission.
EATS: When you’re looking for pure Italian food, rather than the Cal-Ital so beloved in San Francisco, this is where you want to come. Here, one recent evening, a father and son shared a bountiful gratin dish of eggplant layered with mozzarella and tomato, a combination that’s decidedly down-home without being greasy. Others began with a simple salad of butter lettuce, tossed with a fragrant black-truffle vinaigrette and topped with pieces of hard-cooked egg, followed by a plate of pappardelle with a wild-boar ragout—foggy-weather food at its finest.
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