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Fashion + Style

Boys in the Hood

How does the real man on our streets dress? Plus, accessorizing district by district.
by Nerissa Pacio
posted on February 20, 2008 		email page | print page



Web Exclusive Q+A
The TenderNob: Naotake Nogata
What are three things that every style-conscious man should keep in mind when dressing?
Sizing, colors and balance. I see a lot of people making mistakes with these things—especially sizing. These are the things that I try to keep in mind. It’s just not stylish if it’s too baggy.

Describe a typical head-to-toe outfit.
I like wearing monotone colors—black, gray, white—and then adding splashes of color. I like collared shirts, but mostly just wear T-shirts and jeans. And cool sneakers, of course. On the weekends, I surf a lot, so it’s just flip-flops, jeans and T-shirts.

Do you follow trends?
I do follow trends, but if something gets too popular, I stop wearing it. I try to always look for the newer styles. I don’t really try to set trends, though. I like the idea of everyone having a different style.

What inspires your fashion?
I am influenced by my friends and the people around me. When I’m walking around or shopping downtown, I try to check out what other salespeople are wearing. I don’t really think that much about defining what I like; I just choose things from my favorite brands.

What drew you to the fashion industry?
I was really opened up into the world of fashion through skateboarding. The skateboarders on the street are key fashion models these days. Kids see them and copy their looks. They are always out on the street, skateboarding, doing insane tricks and looking cool.
I moved here and was expecting to study business—I didn’t think I would go into fashion, even though I liked it. Clothing was always a hobby of mine, and at first I was going to go into a bigger corporate company, but I met [Huf founder] Keith Hufnagel—who is a respected professional skateboarder—and realized what a cool industry it is in terms of fashion.

What’s a typical first-date outfit?
I don’t like to get too dressy. I stay casual: mostly T-shirts, and jeans, jeans, jeans. When I do get dressed up, I like to wear designer clothes rather than my everyday Huf styles. I love Ralph Lauren, Martin Margiela and Gucci. I have a pair of Martin Margiela mid-height, grayish leather boots that I love.  —Nicola Fleischer
Jackson Square: Nii-Ama Akuete
Do you have any other fashion inspirations?
Sidney Poitier. He’s timeless.

What’s your biggest fashion challenge?
Very few designers make clothes for taller, more athletically built people. I end up at G-Star [76 Geary St., 415-398-5381, g-star.com] for denim and at Hugo Boss [845 Market St., 415-495-2082, hugoboss.com] and Brooks Brothers [150 Post St., 415-397-4500, brooksbrothers.com] for well-cut suits.

What makes an ensemble memorable?
It’s OK to look for something and to go find it, whether you find it in a magazine or online. Women do it all the time. That definitely adds to your wardrobe. Shoes are important, whether for work or weekend. And a watch is important. Accessories: whether it’s a scarf, a tie or tie clip, pocket square, a hat. It’s all important. And people notice.

What influences your fashion?
I’m a weekend warrior, and I love urban music. I’ll listen to anything from Lauryn Hill to Eric Clapton to the Knife. It’s about dressing for the mood as well. During the week, you want to look professional and keep focused. Evenings and weekends, I want to kick back and wear sneakers everywhere I go. But I still want to stand out. It doesn’t have to be a suit, but just the right shirt-and-jacket combination. Comfort is key on weekends. It’s hard because sometimes you see these guys dressed up at the clubs in their suits, but if you wear that every day of the week, you want to relax on weekends.

You just moved here from New York—what’s been the biggest style adjustment?
California has its own business attire. In New York, you definitely go with the black suit, occasional light gray or dark gray. Out here, you can take some more casual liberties: lighter colors, khakis. But still be professional.

You mentioned you love sneakers. Would you consider yourself a collector?
Definitely. I used to own a clothing store in New York, so keep that in mind. I’m a big sneaker head. I have about 50—all boxed up, hardly used, hardly worn. That’s a little weird! I’ve got Bathing Apes. I love Supras. There’s a line called Supra NS—for Supra Non-Skates. They really stand out when you see them. I’ll look for sneaker stores in different cities.

What would you never wear?
An ascot. Actually, I shouldn’t say never. It might happen someday. But it takes a whole other level of comfort, and I’m not there yet. Baby steps! —Nerissa  Pacio
The Marina/Cow Hollow: Justin Newlin
What’s one item you wear when you go out that signals you’re making an effort?
A vintage tie. If you wear a tie, you’re never underdressed.

What would you absolutely never wear?
Deck shoes. Like old-man deck shoes. It will be a sad day when I get to the point where I start rocking deck shoes and a leather sports coat. I think leather coats should only come in motorcycle jackets.

What do you think about when you get dressed in the morning?
Depending if I have meetings or anything, it’s usually just about comfort. At the same time, I don’t want to look like I just rolled out of bed or anything. Being a merchandiser, it’s important to look like you know what you’re doing.

What inspires your fashion?
Probably music and the people that are involved with it. You know who’s looking good these days? Like when you see the cover of a magazine, and you could ask yourself, “Would I wear that? Does that look good?” Or when you go out to rock shows, and you see what people are wearing and you think, “Could I pull that off?”

Who are your style icons?
Recently, I’ve been into the classic look. Robert Redford in the ’70s. He is so cool. I even look back at the Rat Pack. They always made it a point to never go out without a suit on. I feel like they set the tone in many ways going forward, and I think that a lot of movie stars today look back at Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, Sammy Davis Jr., and see what those guys are wearing. You look at Brad Pitt and George Clooney in Ocean’s Eleven, and they are definitely very hip. George Clooney’s a fashion icon. He’s like an old-school classic guy. Justin Timberlake definitely has style too. As much as every guy likes to say that they don’t like Justin Timberlake, he’s a hard guy not to like.

What are your favorite places to shop in SF?
Held Over on Haight [1543 Haight St., 415-864-0818] I really like a lot. I go to Urban Outfitters [80 Powell St., 415-989-1515, urbanoutfitters.com] all the time. I mean, it’s definitely commercialized, but they still play in the realm of hip and have an edge. American Rag [1305 Van Ness Ave., 415-474-4553, amrag.com]—I really love that store, and you can get some decently priced stuff there. RVCA [1485 Haight St., 415-701-7822, rvcaclothing.com] on Haight is my new favorite store. I went in there and I felt like I was in New York. —Desiree Ramirez
Hayes Valley: Andrew Mariani
What style rules do you have, if any?
It’s like cooking. If you just have some quality ingredients, it’s going to be good. 

What are your favorite shops in Hayes Valley?
R.A.G. [541 Octavia St., 415-621-7718, ragsf.com], which carries all local designers, and Ver Unica [437B Hayes St.., 415-431-0688, ver-unica.com]—it’s not a thrift store, but really good vintage stuff, mostly women’s.

Do you follow trends?
It’s okay to be influenced by things that interest you, but when it comes to style, and to how you live your life, you always have to present yourself to the world the way you want to be—not the way you think that people want you to be. I’m influenced by things that interest me, but I don’t feel like I’m following trends.

Do you notice other guys’ fashion faux pas?
I was in Athens, GA, in this bar, and every single guy had a pastel Polo shirt on and khaki shorts. They looked like an army of Polo.

Who’s your style icon?
I take style cues from the late, great [Mexican revolutionary] Emiliano Zapata [Salazar]. He was a rough dude, but always dressed as a strapping gentleman: the ’stache, huge hat, fitted jeans! The man had style! And if he was in San Francisco today, he’d probably live in Hayes Valley.  —Sasha Bernstein
North Beach: Matt Vallone
What are your favorite items of clothing?
My Black Keys T-shirt and, right now, my Ted Baker jeans are in rotation.

What’s your secret spot in the ’hood?
The San Francisco Italian Athletic Club [1630 Stockton St., 415-781-0165, sfiac.org]. I used to go there and take Italian-language lessons. That place is awesome. They have an old-school bar upstairs. It’s a really cool place; they have a gym, and I think it was founded back in the ’20s, when they had all sorts of athletic clubs, but now it doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of athletes walking around. More like folks with a lot of food and years under their belt, which accumulate to a different style of athlete—more of a competitive eater than a marathon runner.

Do you think athletes are stylish in general?
I feel like athletes’ style is terrible these days. You look at ESPN, and you see these dudes wearing the worst-fitting, most giant suits that you can possibly get. I get that they’re big guys, but get it tailored!

Men’s fashion icons?
George Clooney always dresses like a classic man. Also, Robert Redford: Even before aviators were like the new trucker cap. He’s always wearing those aviators and a blue denim shirt with a vest or something. I just feel like he’s always had a real American sense of style.

Do you follow trends?
I’d say that I try to be antitrend to some extent, but you can’t really help it. Trends are what buyers buy, and that’s what is in the stores. As much as classic stuff is cool, you don’t want to look the same every day. I generally resist “today’s brand-new latest thing.” I never got into sneakers. Everybody was going to the Mission to get these super-rad sneakers. I wear sneakers to the gym. I wear shoes other places.

Do you do or wear anything that your friends give you a hard time about?
I pretty much wear all of my shirts always tucked in. I just think it looks better. Personally, I think you look like a slob if it’s untucked. I get teased a lot, but I don’t really care.

Man bags: For or against?
I don’t have a problem with a guy carrying a bag, but there’s definitely a line. You have to carry your shit for work, but I think what’s over the line is Friday night out and you’ve got a bag with you. I’ve got a phone and a money clip. If I can ditch everything, [I will].

Biggest style mistake?
White athletic socks with leather shoes. Also, wearing the Bluetooth thing. —Melissa Goldstein
Potrero Hill: Peter Kirkeby
Who are your style icons?
David Bowie is very stylish. Oh, and the late Bunker Spreckels [surfer, stepson of Clark Gable and heir to the Spreckels sugar fortune]—he was like a cross between Elvis Presley and Bruce Lee.

What’s your favorite shop in your neighborhood? Why?
My favorite shop in Potrero Hill is Arch [99 Missouri St., 415-433-2724, archsupplies.com]. It’s a drafting store, but they have great gifts and accessories and very cool wallets.

Where do you get your hair cut?
At Abner’s, this barbershop across from the Safeway on Mission Street [3359 Mission St., 415-826-1965]. It’s a regular barber—like the ones you see in the movies—where men sit around and talk about everything from politics to fishing. Best of all, it only costs $20.

How would you describe your sense of style?
I’m very comfortable with my fashion—I mean, I’m unafraid of wearing a sealskin vest, a loud shirt or a pair of pants with bell-bottom cuffs. I’ve also recently gotten into T-shirts made here in Potrero Hill by the Deluxe skateboard company, and I buy my shoes at Huf [516 Hayes St., 415-552-3820, and 808 Sutter St., 415-614-9414, hufsf.com]—they carry a Japanese brand, VSVM, that is very well-made and comfortable.

Do you have any rules when it comes to fashion?
No, no rules. Or at least, my rules are inconsistent. I don’t like “outfits.” If I’m not wearing all black, then I like to mix it up.

Do you follow trends?
My family is from Denmark and I have an apartment in Norway, so I’ve always admired that Scandinavian aesthetic. Scandinavian and Japanese design is similar: clean lines, not limited by tradition. When the dollar was better, I’d buy a lot of sweaters and long underwear. Knitted things in Scandinavia are the best.

What is the biggest style mistake most men make?
Following trends. I think trends are interesting, but they introduce the need to follow them. There shouldn’t be the pressure to be current, to wear big sunglasses. I appreciate trends, but I’m suspicious of them.  —Jessica Battilana
Castro/the Mission: Frankie Sharp
Do you have any rules when it comes to fashion?
There are no rules! Except that you have to have good hair. Always.

Speaking of hair, where do you go for cuts?
Pro-Style [3 Embarcadero Center, 415-982-5584] in the Embarcadero Center. Aidan is amazing. I think everyone should have their hair done by him.

Where do you shop?
I shop when I travel. I love Opening Ceremony and Seven in New York, Loveless in Tokyo, and Kokon To Zai and Colette in Paris. When I shop in SF, I prefer Painted Bird [1201A Guerrero St., 415-401-7027, paintedbird.org], Idol Vintage [3162 16th St., 415-225-9959] and Barneys [77 O’Farrell St., 415-268-3500, barneys.com]. And the Ashby flea market on the weekends for accessories and bean pie.

Who’s your favorite designer?
Jeremy Scott. His designs embody my way of thinking: Take yourself seriously by not taking yourself seriously.

What is it that draws you to the Castro?
The Castro feels like Europe to me because of the street angles and assortment of shops. You’re in one neighborhood, but just steps away from the Mission, Noe Valley and Hayes Valley. I’ve lived there for four years now and love it.

What are your favorite neighborhood haunts?
I’m at the Transfer [198 Church St., 415-861-7499] a lot. Robert Guzman, the bartender, is my favorite bartender of all time. He’s full of cuckoo stories. I DJ there during the monthly party “Big Top,” which is the last Sunday of each month. I often eat at Young’s BBQ [3412 17th St., 415-552-4858] and Warakabune [307 Church St., 415-252-8383].

What inspires your fashion choices?
Love, happiness, color, good music and endless possibilities.

Who are your style icons?
Irish singer Roísín Murphy, M.I.A. and Björk. Björk is a true eccentric and a powerhouse of talent. She’s the one who turned me on to Hussein Chalayan, Bernhard Willhelm and Jeremy Scott. A friend and I once picked out a vintage silver sweater for her and gave it to her at one of her shows in Seattle. She loved it. —Sydney  Pfaff




Web Exclusive Q+A
The TenderNob: Naotake Nogata
What are three things that every style-conscious man should keep in mind when dressing?
Sizing, colors and balance. I see a lot of people making mistakes with these things—especially sizing. These are the things that I try to keep in mind. It’s just not stylish if it’s too baggy.

Describe a typical head-to-toe outfit.
I like wearing monotone colors—black, gray, white—and then adding splashes of color. I like collared shirts, but mostly just wear T-shirts and jeans. And cool sneakers, of course. On the weekends, I surf a lot, so it’s just flip-flops, jeans and T-shirts.

Do you follow trends?
I do follow trends, but if something gets too popular, I stop wearing it. I try to always look for the newer styles. I don’t really try to set trends, though. I like the idea of everyone having a different style.

What inspires your fashion?
I am influenced by my friends and the people around me. When I’m walking around or shopping downtown, I try to check out what other salespeople are wearing. I don’t really think that much about defining what I like; I just choose things from my favorite brands.

What drew you to the fashion industry?
I was really opened up into the world of fashion through skateboarding. The skateboarders on the street are key fashion models these days. Kids see them and copy their looks. They are always out on the street, skateboarding, doing insane tricks and looking cool.
I moved here and was expecting to study business—I didn’t think I would go into fashion, even though I liked it. Clothing was always a hobby of mine, and at first I was going to go into a bigger corporate company, but I met [Huf founder] Keith Hufnagel—who is a respected professional skateboarder—and realized what a cool industry it is in terms of fashion.

What’s a typical first-date outfit?
I don’t like to get too dressy. I stay casual: mostly T-shirts, and jeans, jeans, jeans. When I do get dressed up, I like to wear designer clothes rather than my everyday Huf styles. I love Ralph Lauren, Martin Margiela and Gucci. I have a pair of Martin Margiela mid-height, grayish leather boots that I love.  —Nicola Fleischer...


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