Fresh Talent

Check out SF's latest crop of hot designers.

About Face	LEFT: Sara Shepherd’s silk chiffon sea skirt features a wool-suiting overlay and silk-charmeuse bias razorback. MIDDLE: the italian cotton “rays” top by Podoll ($270) is available at M.A.C.— Modern Appealing Clothing, 387 Grove St., 415-837-0615. RIGHT: Husband-and-wife team Josh and Lauren Podoll are the creative forces behind the visual-arts-inspired line Podoll. Credits:  FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Peter Z. Jones; Kanod Zimmerman; Chris Diaz
San Francisco can look forward to more homegrown design talent thanks to Gen Art, the national nonprofit organization perhaps best known for helping launch the careers of such designers as Zac Posen, Julie Chaiken and Rebecca Taylor. Among the eight local names—chosen from more than 50 entries—whose work sashayed down the catwalk of Gen Art’s fourth annual Fresh Faces fashion showcase late last month were two standout emerging SF labels: Podoll (podollcollection.com) and Sara Shepherd (sarashepherd.com). “It’s exciting to share a vision with a live audience,” says Lauren Podoll, who cofounded the eponymous menswear and women’s-wear company last year with her husband, Josh. Inspired by the idea of light and space they’d seen in the works of artists Olafur Eliasson and James Turrell, the couple uses white-on-white materials for a layered effect in their fall collection. Italian cottons, knits and silk toile appear in the construction of A-line shift dresses with Peter Pan collars and waterproof outerwear that glimmers with a silvery finish. “We wanted to use light as the medium,” says Lauren Podoll, who grew up in the Bay Area. “As a result, the clothes have a sense of ease, but aren’t drowning the body.”   Designer Sara Shepherd, an Academy of Art University alum, borrowed fashion cues from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland for her fall 2007 collection. Using an array of silks and summer wools in pale blues and dusty roses, she created an eclectic mix of bias-cut dresses and skirts with curved seams. “I wanted to convey a sense of individual journey,” says Shepherd, who hails from Bedfordshire, England. “The line is strong and confident—with a little bit of oomph.”—Jennie Nunn

49 SQ. MI. leather Ansel clutch (LEFT) in Ananas ($250) and Big Mouth hobo (RIGHT) in plum ($595); both are available at Hush, 1878 Union St., 415-563-4874.   Credits: courtesy of 49 SQ. MI	Bag Ladies
	When Lisa Rissetto decided she was going to start her own line of accessories, she knew one thing for certain: A monstrous label plastered on every item was not an option. “I’ve always been very anti-logo,” explains Rissetto, founder of the new local handbag line 49 SQ. MI and a former executive at Esprit. As an answer to the “it” bag phenomenon, Rissetto teamed up with Piper Hook, who’d worked at Gap, Inc. for 13 years, to launch a line of simple yet luxurious Italian lambskin and calfskin bags with a quirky name that’s an endearing nod to our city (the number 49, of course, refers the actual area of San Francisco). The supple leather bags with minimal hardware come in bright hues, rich jewel tones and gorgeous neutrals, and retail for between $200 and $750. Only a hand-stitched, barely there logo on each bag identifies the brand, proving that when it comes to fashion statements, subtlety goes a long way. —Vanessa Brunner

Runway Rewind	LEFT: A beribboned take on beachwear by Onerary. MIDDLE: Dcepcion specializes in funky tailored streetwear. RIGHT: ribbons pop up again (with lace) in the Emily Jane clothing line.   Credits: FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Simon Miller; Jar Concengco; Kathryn Roach
Fall is upon us, and in true industry form, fashion insiders are already talking about the seasons ahead. Late last month, SF Fashion Week got the conversation started with the debut of spring/summer 2008 collections by a trio of local labels that deserve a second look. Daniel and David Concepcion, the Vallejo-based designers behind Dcepcion (dcepcion.com), call their clothes “casual street wear,” but it’s urban gear with a decidedly clean and tailored point of view. Identical twins who are both SF State grads, the Concepcions showed their first full collection of menswear and women’s wear, entitled “Street Society,” at SF Fashion Week. It included men’s slim-cut button-down shirts with such offbeat details as asymmetrical pocket flaps and, for women, crisp racer-back shirtdresses. “It’s about basics with versatility,” says David. SoMa resident Emily Jane Barker had the active SF woman in mind when creating her Emily Jane Clothing collection (emilyjaneclothing.com), which features elegant formalwear with a vintage twist. Think slinky silk-and-lace cocktail skirts and tops with rhinestone and grosgrain-ribbon details. “I’m the type of girl who dresses up just to go to the grocery store,” Barker says. “What inspired me is everyday city life and women who are confident and sexy, and who love to look like women.” Bicoastal design duo Danielle DeRoberts of San Francisco and Katy Parnello of New York merge the best of both worlds with their fiery label, Onerary (onerary.com), which in August brought city funk to the SF runway. Their deconstructed hoodies, dresses and skirts with unfinished hemlines, patchwork, layering and distressing translates into what the creative team calls “wearable art.” —Nerissa Pacio

About Face	LEFT: Sara Shepherd’s silk chiffon sea skirt features a wool-suiting overlay and silk-charmeuse bias razorback. MIDDLE: the italian cotton “rays” top by Podoll ($270) is available at M.A.C.— Modern Appealing Clothing, 387 Grove St., 415-837-0615. RIGHT: Husband-and-wife team Josh and Lauren Podoll are the creative forces behind the visual-arts-inspired line Podoll. Credits:  FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Peter Z. Jones; Kanod Zimmerman; Chris Diaz
San Francisco can look forward to more homegrown design talent thanks to Gen Art, the national nonprofit organization perhaps best known for helping launch the careers of such designers as Zac Posen, Julie Chaiken and Rebecca Taylor. Among the eight local names—chosen from more than 50 entries—whose work sashayed down the catwalk of Gen Art’s fourth annual Fresh Faces fashion showcase late last month were two standout emerging SF labels: Podoll (podollcollection.com) and Sara Shepherd (sarashepherd.com). “It’s exciting to share a vision with a live audience,” says Lauren Podoll, who cofounded the eponymous menswear and women’s-wear company last year with her husband, Josh. Inspired by the idea of light and space they’d seen in the works of artists Olafur Eliasson and James Turrell, the couple uses white-on-white materials for a layered effect in their fall collection. Italian cottons, knits and silk toile appear in the construction of A-line shift dresses with Peter Pan collars and waterproof outerwear that glimmers with a silvery finish. “We wanted to use light as the medium,” says Lauren Podoll, who grew up in the Bay Area. “As a result, the clothes have a sense of ease, but aren’t drowning the body.”   Designer Sara Shepherd, an Academy of Art University alum, borrowed fashion cues from Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland for her fall 2007 collection. Using an array of silks and summer wools in pale blues and dusty roses, she created an eclectic mix of bias-cut dresses and skirts with curved seams. “I wanted to convey a sense of individual journey,” says Shepherd, who hails from Bedfordshire, England. “The line is strong and confident—with a little bit of oomph.”—Jennie Nunn

49 SQ. MI. leather Ansel clutch (LEFT) in Ananas ($250) and Big Mouth hobo (RIGHT) in plum ($595); both are available at Hush, 1878 Union St., 415-563-4874.   Credits: courtesy of 49 SQ. MI	Bag Ladies
	When Lisa Rissetto decided she was going to start her own line of accessories, she knew one thing for certain: A monstrous label plastered on every item was not an option. “I’ve always been very anti-logo,” explains Rissetto, founder of the new local handbag line 49 SQ. MI and a former executive at Esprit. As an answer to the “it” bag phenomenon, Rissetto teamed up with Piper Hook, who’d worked at Gap, Inc. for 13 years, to launch a line of simple yet luxurious Italian lambskin and calfskin bags with a quirky name that’s an endearing nod to our city (the number 49, of course, refers the actual area of San Francisco). The supple leather bags with minimal hardware come in bright hues, rich jewel tones and gorgeous neutrals, and retail for between $200 and $750. Only a hand-stitched, barely there logo on each bag identifies the brand, proving that when it comes to fashion statements, subtlety goes a long way. —Vanessa Brunner

Runway Rewind	LEFT: A beribboned take on beachwear by Onerary. MIDDLE: Dcepcion specializes in funky tailored streetwear. RIGHT: ribbons pop up again (with lace) in the Emily Jane clothing line.   Credits: FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Simon Miller; Jar Concengco; Kathryn Roach
Fall is upon us, and in true industry form, fashion insiders are already talking about the seasons ahead. Late last month, SF Fashion Week got the conversation started with the debut of spring/summer 2008 collections by a trio of local labels that deserve a second look. Daniel and David Concepcion, the Vallejo-based designers behind Dcepcion (dcepcion.com), call their clothes “casual street wear,” but it’s urban gear with a decidedly clean and tailored point of view. Identical twins who are both SF State grads, the Concepcions showed their first full collection of menswear and women’s wear, entitled “Street Society,” at SF Fashion Week. It included men’s slim-cut button-down shirts with such offbeat details as asymmetrical pocket flaps and, for women, crisp racer-back shirtdresses. “It’s about basics with versatility,” says David. SoMa resident Emily Jane Barker had the active SF woman in mind when creating her Emily Jane Clothing collection (emilyjaneclothing.com), which features elegant formalwear with a vintage twist. Think slinky silk-and-lace cocktail skirts and tops with rhinestone and grosgrain-ribbon details. “I’m the type of girl who dresses up just to go to the grocery store,” Barker says. “What inspired me is everyday city life and women who are confident and sexy, and who love to look like women.” Bicoastal design duo Danielle DeRoberts of San Francisco and Katy Parnello of New York merge the best of both worlds with their fiery label, Onerary (onerary.com), which in August brought city funk to the SF runway. Their deconstructed hoodies, dresses and skirts with unfinished hemlines, patchwork, layering and distressing translates into what the creative team calls “wearable art.” —Nerissa Pacio

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