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Welcome to Smallville
Family-friendly and quaint, Cole Valley packs an atmospheric punch.
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by Nicola Fleischer
posted on October 25, 2007
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| Between the bustle of Haight Street and the panoramic city views of Twin Peaks and Clarendon Heights lies Cole Valley, a roughly three-by-nine-block patch of small-town city living. Everything residents need, from post office to pet store, is within walking distance, with nary a big chain in sight (the only exception being Tully’s Coffee). There’s a decidedly artsy bent to this area: The neighborhood has its own blog for “creative” types (colevalley.org), and September’s Heart of Cole Festival, now in its fifth year, focuses on artistic and literary offerings. The N-Judah line runs smack through the main intersection, at Cole and Carl, and Muni began holding meetings this fall to explore the possibility of improving the busy stop with wider sidewalks, bus shelters, vending machines and new newspaper racks—changes that will no doubt bring even more visitors to the restaurant-lined streets. One word of advice: Be prepared for long waits on weekends, and bring cash. Many of CV’s establishments don’t accept credit cards—or reservations. |
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LEFT: The view from Tank Hill, at the south end of the neighborhood. RIGHT: You don’t have to drive to Cole Valley—the N-Judah will take you there.
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| photography by Stefanie Michejda |
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Pharmaca; live lady bugs for sale at Cole Hardware; whimsy rules at Egg and the Urban Mercantile; Adel’s owner, Adel Shalabi, keeps a stash of rare wines in his cellar.
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| The true heart of the neighborhood’s strong community may just be Cole Hardware, the hardware store that’s spawned a citywide mini-chain. From its Hardware Hotline to its free monthly newsletter complete with green-living tips, the flagship is known for its dedicated and familiar service. Locals love Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy, which is anything but your traditional neighborhood drugstore (although it does fill prescriptions). Here, the “experts in wellness” guide customers toward herbal supplements and luxurious bath and body products from a wide range of all-natural brands. The store also offers holistic and homeopathic doctors and consultants, as well as a nutritionist and esthetician. Egg and the Urban Mercantile is a boutique packed with tastefully designed pillows, linens and tableware, as well as jewelry and baby gifts. Make sure to pick up one of the Egg Press designer cards for your next thank-you note. If you’re prepared to spend some time combing the overflowing shelves of Four Corners Antiques, you may score a vintage version of a board game or a classic Zippo lighter. For a unique gift, Four Corners will turn old typewriter keys into earrings, necklaces, bracelets, brooches or cuff links. Recently remodeled Ashbury Market is where Cole Valleyites go for produce, fresh fish and an affordably priced but excellent selection of wine. The inventory leans toward the healthy and natural—think of it as a family-owned Whole Foods. For an even more extensive wine selection, way up at the intersection of 17th and Cole is Adel’s Wine Cellar, a corner shop that also carries a small array of snack foods and grocery items; on your way out, pick up some fresh flowers for your dinner party. |
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"HAVING THE HAIGHT JUST DOWN THE STREET keeps the neighborhood from becoming another Cow Hollow."
—Cole Valley resident Eliza Turner
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| LEFT: A young Cole Valleyite learns the ropes at that perennial hangout, Boulange de Cole. RIGHT: Aptly named Burger Meister uses Niman Ranch beef and generous toppings. |
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The line is generally out the door at Zazie, where the breakfast menu—which includes weekly special pancakes such as pumpkin spice and lemon-ricotta—is offered (and unfailingly ordered) until 2:30 p.m. Call ahead for the Beaujolais Night on November 15, celebrating the first Beaujolais release of the season. Dog lovers cram in on Monday nights, when you can bring your puppy to dinner on the heated garden patio—and get $10 off of a bottle of Mutt Lynch Zinfandel. Asia-philes from all corners of the Bay Area still come to Eos Restaurant & Wine Bar, where shiitake dumplings remain the all-time favorite even though the ownership has changed. Everyone also raves about the molten chocolate cake, served with house-made salted-caramel ice cream. Serious sushi lovers seek out the easy-to-miss Hama-Ko Sushi for its legendarily fresh raw fish and such delicacies as ankimo (monkfish liver). With only a dozen tables and a tiny bar (which you should never ask to sit at—it is permanently reserved by the owner/chef on an invitation-only basis), the wait can be long, but it’s worth it. If the strollers and puppies start getting to you, duck into divey Finnegan’s Wake for a Bloody Mary, a game of pool, some jukebox tunes and, yes, a heated outdoor patio. For a little less rowdiness, head instead to Kezar, where sports fans congregate on game days to root for their favorite teams. The bar also has a dining-only area, where parents can bring the kids for mac-and-cheese. After a night out, recuperate over a steaming cup of coffee and a warm crêpe dusted with powdered sugar at Crepes on Cole, where the plates are overflowing and the atmosphere is casual. The open, inviting feel and baked goods at Boulange de Cole make it a social hub—just like back when it was Tassajara Bakery. Pop in for a quick latté and feel like a part of the inner circle (or at least watch it go round). For more hearty fare, try Burger Meister’s exhaustive menu of burgers made with Niman Ranch beef. Add anything from conventional bacon and cheese to grilled pineapple and tropical salsa, then take a seat at one of the counter’s red-leather stools to wash it all down with one of the six draft beers. Put together a European-inspired weekend picnic at Say Cheese, where you can grab a bottle of your favorite wine, a hunk of pungent cheese, a baguette and a couple of dark-chocolate truffles—and a wicker picnic basket to pack it all in. Just next door is Reverie Cafe, the neighborhood coffeehouse. Popular among UCSF med students holing up for caffeine-fueled study sessions, this is your stop for muffins, cappuccino and people-watching—rumor has it you’re apt to find Craigslist’s Craig Newmark here on any given weekday.
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| A variety of breads on display at Boulange de Cole. |
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| Between the bustle of Haight Street and the panoramic city views of Twin Peaks and Clarendon Heights lies Cole Valley, a roughly three-by-nine-block patch of small-town city living. Everything residents need, from post office to pet store, is within walking distance, with nary a big chain in sight (the only exception being Tully’s Coffee). There’s a decidedly artsy bent to this area: The neighborhood has its own blog for “creative” types (colevalley.org), and September’s Heart of Cole Festival, now in its fifth year, focuses on artistic and literary offerings. The N-Judah line runs smack through the main intersection, at Cole and Carl, and Muni began holding meetings this fall to explore the possibility of improving the busy stop with wider sidewalks, bus shelters, vending machines and new newspaper racks—changes that will no doubt bring even more visitors to the restaurant-lined streets. One word of advice: Be prepared for long waits on weekends, and bring cash. Many of CV’s establishments don’t accept credit cards—or reservations. |
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|
|
LEFT: The view from Tank Hill, at the south end of the neighborhood. RIGHT: You don’t have to drive to Cole Valley—the N-Judah will take you there.
|
| photography by Stefanie Michejda |
| shop |
|
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Pharmaca; live lady bugs for sale at Cole Hardware; whimsy rules at Egg and the Urban Mercantile; Adel’s owner, Adel Shalabi, keeps a stash of rare wines in his cellar.
|
|
|
|
| The true heart of the neighborhood’s strong community may just be Cole Hardware, the hardware store that’s spawned a citywide mini-chain. From its Hardware Hotline to its free monthly newsletter complete with green-living tips, the flagship is known for its dedicated and familiar service. Locals love Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy, which is anything but your traditional neighborhood drugstore (although it does fill prescriptions). Here, the “experts in wellness” guide customers toward herbal supplements and luxurious bath and body products from a wide range of all-natural brands. The store also offers holistic and homeopathic doctors and consultants, as well as a nutritionist and esthetician. Egg and the Urban Mercantile is a boutique packed with tastefully designed pillows, linens and tableware, as well as jewelry and baby gifts. Make sure to pick up one of the Egg Press designer cards for your next thank-you note. If you’re prepared to spend some time combing the overflowing shelves of Four Corners Antiques, you may score a vintage version of a board game or a classic Zippo lighter. For a unique gift, Four Corners will turn old typewriter keys into earrings, necklaces, bracelets, brooches or cuff links. Recently remodeled Ashbury Market is where Cole Valleyites go for produce, fresh fish and an affordably priced but excellent selection of wine. The inventory leans toward the healthy and natural—think of it as a family-owned Whole Foods. For an even more extensive wine selection, way up at the intersection of 17th and Cole is Adel’s Wine Cellar, a corner shop that also carries a small array of snack foods and grocery items; on your way out, pick up some fresh flowers for your dinner party. |
|
|
"HAVING THE HAIGHT JUST DOWN THE STREET keeps the neighborhood from becoming another Cow Hollow."
—Cole Valley resident Eliza Turner
|
| eat |
|
|
|
| LEFT: A young Cole Valleyite learns the ropes at that perennial hangout, Boulange de Cole. RIGHT: Aptly named Burger Meister uses Niman Ranch beef and generous toppings. |
|
The line is generally out the door at Zazie, where the breakfast menu—which includes weekly special pancakes such as pumpkin spice and lemon-ricotta—is offered (and unfailingly ordered) until 2:30 p.m. Call ahead for the Beaujolais Night on November 15, celebrating the first Beaujolais release of the season. Dog lovers cram in on Monday nights, when you can bring your puppy to dinner on the heated garden patio—and get $10 off of a bottle of Mutt Lynch Zinfandel. Asia-philes from all corners of the Bay Area still come to Eos Restaurant & Wine Bar, where shiitake dumplings remain the all-time favorite even though the ownership has changed. Everyone also raves about the molten chocolate cake, served with house-made salted-caramel ice cream. Serious sushi lovers seek out the easy-to-miss Hama-Ko Sushi for its legendarily fresh raw fish and such delicacies as ankimo (monkfish liver). With only a dozen tables and a tiny bar (which you should never ask to sit at—it is permanently reserved by the owner/chef on an invitation-only basis), the wait can be long, but it’s worth it. If the strollers and puppies start getting to you, duck into divey Finnegan’s Wake for a Bloody Mary, a game of pool, some jukebox tunes and, yes, a heated outdoor patio. For a little less rowdiness, head instead to Kezar, where sports fans congregate on game days to root for their favorite teams. The bar also has a dining-only area, where parents can bring the kids for mac-and-cheese. After a night out, recuperate over a steaming cup of coffee and a warm crêpe dusted with powdered sugar at Crepes on Cole, where the plates are overflowing and the atmosphere is casual. The open, inviting feel and baked goods at Boulange de Cole make it a social hub—just like back when it was Tassajara Bakery. Pop in for a quick latté and feel like a part of the inner circle (or at least watch it go round). For more hearty fare, try Burger Meister’s exhaustive menu of burgers made with Niman Ranch beef. Add anything from conventional bacon and cheese to grilled pineapple and tropical salsa, then take a seat at one of the counter’s red-leather stools to wash it all down with one of the six draft beers. Put together a European-inspired weekend picnic at Say Cheese, where you can grab a bottle of your favorite wine, a hunk of pungent cheese, a baguette and a couple of dark-chocolate truffles—and a wicker picnic basket to pack it all in. Just next door is Reverie Cafe, the neighborhood coffeehouse. Popular among UCSF med students holing up for caffeine-fueled study sessions, this is your stop for muffins, cappuccino and people-watching—rumor has it you’re apt to find Craigslist’s Craig Newmark here on any given weekday.
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| A variety of breads on display at Boulange de Cole. |
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