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Waking Life
Exploring new (and old) diversions on Pac Heights' perennial do-it-all drag.
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by Nicola Fleischer
posted on February 26, 2008
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| No SF street can claim a richer cultural history than Fillmore. Once called the Harlem of the West, it has witnessed such cultural milestones as the first public reading of Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and the 1965 debut of the Grateful Dead. While its northern end is home to laptop-laden cafes and a rotating selection of pricey boutiques, the blocks closer to Geary are beginning to see more changes than they have in decades, thanks in large part to the opening of Yoshi’s this past winter and the reinvented Sundance Kabuki Cinemas. Because this is San Francisco, the restaurants aren’t far behind: Instant faves, such as SPQR and 1300 on Fillmore, will soon be joined by another branch of Out the Door (this one on Bush) and—in what is surely a sign of gentrification in reverse—a second location of the Mission’s Pizzeria Delfina (in the old Zao Noodle space on California). Whether or not the city’s legendary jazz scene is indeed reborn here in the coming years, no one can argue that Fillmore was, is and will continue to be one of the city’s most dynamic avenues.
photography by Stefanie Michejda
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| Nightlife |
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Where Fillmore meets Japantown, the renovated and renamed Sundance Kabuki Cinemas may be the single remaining reason to pay $10.50 to see a movie (plus a well-worth-it fee of $1 to $3 that lets you choose your own seat). Downstairs, the new Kabuki Kitchen is home to chef Vincent Schofield, formerly of Boulevard. He’s crafted a menu of seasonal small plates, pizzas and entrées that have wide appeal—along with a cheese plate that features imports and local faves, such as Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk and Point Reyes Blue. Upstairs in Bar Bistro and the Balcony Bar, a scaled-down version of the same menu is available—and you can take cocktails from the latter to your reclining seat to enjoy throughout the movie. Why didn’t anyone think of all this sooner? With Yoshi’s now on hand, Fillmore’s live-music choices have more than doubled. This month, look for New Orleans–born jazzman Dr. John (March 5–8) and the prolific Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba (March 10–12) fresh off the release of his latest album, Avatar. And of course, just a few blocks away at the legendary Fillmore, it’s the same old reliable rotation of great bands: The New York Dolls, Balkan Beat Box and the Bravery all play this month.
(LEFT): Movies for grownups: in Sundance Kabuki Cinemas’ bar bistro, it’s not just about popcorn anymore. |
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"IT'S LIKE BLEECKER STREET 10 YEARS AGO . It’s got a great neighborhood feel, and it’s going to keep getting better."
—store owner Elizabeth Charles
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| Eat |
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Lower Pac Heights wouldn’t be complete without a little Euro bistro, and Florio fills that role effortlessly. The steak frites are classic, while the cozy bar is a great place to wait for your table at no-res, ever-bustling newcomer SPQR a few doors down. Even with several popular sister cafes sprinkled throughout the city, La Boulange on Fillmore still boasts a particular French charm. Omelets and steaming bowls of café au lait are morning favorites, and the open-faced sandwiches and fresh salads lure shoppers for lunchtime refueling. Located just down the street is the mother shop of the Boulange family, Boulangerie Bay Bread, where fresh-baked baguettes, buttery pains au chocolat and flaky pastries will transport you from Pac Heights to Paris.
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 (ABOVE): melt-in-your-mouth macaroons at Boulangerie Bay Bread.
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| At Elite Café, an old-timer by Fillmore standards, the soulful flavors of New Orleans are served alongside art-deco atmo. Favorites include the Cajun fries and jambalaya made with shrimp, duck, andouille sausage and just enough spice. Fillmore is home to two standout sushi spots: Osaka, where we love the sesame albacore (lightly seared, sesame-coated tuna served with spicy mayo and ponzu sauce), and longtime favorite Ten-Ichi, where the killer combination consists of Nuclear Rolls (spicy California rolls with tobiko, chile pepper and a creamy-spicy sauce) washed down with some of the city’s best sake bombs. |
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| shop |
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Filled with playful styles from around the globe, Fillmore’s boutiques attract posh moms and 30-something fashionistas alike. Australian expat Elizabeth Charles opened her eponymous SF boutique a year ago, riding the success of her first store, in NYC’s meatpacking district. She brings in her favorite Aussie and Kiwi designs, such as the gorgeous, ethereal dresses by wildly popular Oz duo Scanlan & Theodore, found nowhere else in the US. Local designer Sunhee Moon creates simple, stylish clothes using clean lines and wearable colors and fabrics; her flirty blouses and flattering wide-leg pants strike just the right balance of preppy and feminine. Chicago’s Calvin Tran brought his multifunctional collection to SF last August, showcasing striking skirts, blouses and dresses all expertly crafted into versatile, one-size-fits-all staples. Cutting-edge Euro and Japanese designers are the specialty at Harputs Market. Look for luxe athletic wear from Y-3 and down-to-basics perfumes from État Libre d’Orange (we love the stimulating Putain des Palaces). Upstairs, Brooklyn-based men’s-streetwear line Brooklyn Circus has been promoting its curlicue urban designs, and will open its own shop next door to Harput’s on March 15th. If you tend to fall in love with handbags, be careful among Muse Ten’s clutches and carry-alls: An Orla Kiely leather bucket bag and a Trina Turk wristlet recently captured our hearts. Metro 200, which boasts the largest selection of French design house Cop.Copine in the city, is where Fillmore-goers find upscale ready-to-wear European apparel at reasonable prices. For luxe lingerie from such favorites as Cosabella and Falke, check out My Boudoir, where the saleswomen have the uncanny ability to surmise your correct bra size just by looking at you. Expensive, but worth it.
(TOP LEFT): a dress from Aussie designer Collette Dinnigan at Elizabeth Charles; (BOTTOM LEFT): find upscale undies—and your correct bra size—at My Boudoir; (BELOW): Handbags from local label 49 square miles at Muse Ten.
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 |
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| No SF street can claim a richer cultural history than Fillmore. Once called the Harlem of the West, it has witnessed such cultural milestones as the first public reading of Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and the 1965 debut of the Grateful Dead. While its northern end is home to laptop-laden cafes and a rotating selection of pricey boutiques, the blocks closer to Geary are beginning to see more changes than they have in decades, thanks in large part to the opening of Yoshi’s this past winter and the reinvented Sundance Kabuki Cinemas. Because this is San Francisco, the restaurants aren’t far behind: Instant faves, such as SPQR and 1300 on Fillmore, will soon be joined by another branch of Out the Door (this one on Bush) and—in what is surely a sign of gentrification in reverse—a second location of the Mission’s Pizzeria Delfina (in the old Zao Noodle space on California). Whether or not the city’s legendary jazz scene is indeed reborn here in the coming years, no one can argue that Fillmore was, is and will continue to be one of the city’s most dynamic avenues.
photography by Stefanie Michejda
|
| Nightlife |
|
|
Where Fillmore meets Japantown, the renovated and renamed Sundance Kabuki Cinemas may be the single remaining reason to pay $10.50 to see a movie (plus a well-worth-it fee of $1 to $3 that lets you choose your own seat). Downstairs, the new Kabuki Kitchen is home to chef Vincent Schofield, formerly of Boulevard. He’s crafted a menu of seasonal small plates, pizzas and entrées that have wide appeal—along with a cheese plate that features imports and local faves, such as Cowgirl Creamery Red Hawk and Point Reyes Blue. Upstairs in Bar Bistro and the Balcony Bar, a scaled-down version of the same menu is available—and you can take cocktails from the latter to your reclining seat to enjoy throughout the movie. Why didn’t anyone think of all this sooner? With Yoshi’s now on hand, Fillmore’s live-music choices have more than doubled. This month, look for New Orleans–born jazzman Dr. John (March 5–8) and the prolific Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba (March 10–12) fresh off the release of his latest album, Avatar. And of course, just a few blocks away at the legendary Fillmore, it’s the same old reliable rotation of great bands: The New York Dolls, Balkan Beat Box and the Bravery all play this month.
(LEFT): Movies for grownups: in Sundance Kabuki Cinemas’ bar bistro, it’s not just about popcorn anymore. |
|
|
"IT'S LIKE BLEECKER STREET 10 YEARS AGO . It’s got a great neighborhood feel, and it’s going to keep getting better."
—store owner Elizabeth Charles
|
| Eat |
|
Lower Pac Heights wouldn’t be complete without a little Euro bistro, and Florio fills that role effortlessly. The steak frites are classic, while the cozy bar is a great place to wait for your table at no-res, ever-bustling newcomer SPQR a few doors down. Even with several popular sister cafes sprinkled throughout the city, La Boulange on Fillmore still boasts a particular French charm. Omelets and steaming bowls of café au lait are morning favorites, and the open-faced sandwiches and fresh salads lure shoppers for lunchtime refueling. Located just down the street is the mother shop of the Boulange family, Boulangerie Bay Bread, where fresh-baked baguettes, buttery pains au chocolat and flaky pastries will transport you from Pac Heights to Paris.
|
(ABOVE): melt-in-your-mouth macaroons at Boulangerie Bay Bread.
|
| At Elite Café, an old-timer by Fillmore standards, the soulful flavors of New Orleans are served alongside art-deco atmo. Favorites include the Cajun fries and jambalaya made with shrimp, duck, andouille sausage and just enough spice. Fillmore is home to two standout sushi spots: Osaka, where we love the sesame albacore (lightly seared, sesame-coated tuna served with spicy mayo and ponzu sauce), and longtime favorite Ten-Ichi, where the killer combination consists of Nuclear Rolls (spicy California rolls with tobiko, chile pepper and a creamy-spicy sauce) washed down with some of the city’s best sake bombs. |
|
| shop |
|
|
Filled with playful styles from around the globe, Fillmore’s boutiques attract posh moms and 30-something fashionistas alike. Australian expat Elizabeth Charles opened her eponymous SF boutique a year ago, riding the success of her first store, in NYC’s meatpacking district. She brings in her favorite Aussie and Kiwi designs, such as the gorgeous, ethereal dresses by wildly popular Oz duo Scanlan & Theodore, found nowhere else in the US. Local designer Sunhee Moon creates simple, stylish clothes using clean lines and wearable colors and fabrics; her flirty blouses and flattering wide-leg pants strike just the right balance of preppy and feminine. Chicago’s Calvin Tran brought his multifunctional collection to SF last August, showcasing striking skirts, blouses and dresses all expertly crafted into versatile, one-size-fits-all staples. Cutting-edge Euro and Japanese designers are the specialty at Harputs Market. Look for luxe athletic wear from Y-3 and down-to-basics perfumes from État Libre d’Orange (we love the stimulating Putain des Palaces). Upstairs, Brooklyn-based men’s-streetwear line Brooklyn Circus has been promoting its curlicue urban designs, and will open its own shop next door to Harput’s on March 15th. If you tend to fall in love with handbags, be careful among Muse Ten’s clutches and carry-alls: An Orla Kiely leather bucket bag and a Trina Turk wristlet recently captured our hearts. Metro 200, which boasts the largest selection of French design house Cop.Copine in the city, is where Fillmore-goers find upscale ready-to-wear European apparel at reasonable prices. For luxe lingerie from such favorites as Cosabella and Falke, check out My Boudoir, where the saleswomen have the uncanny ability to surmise your correct bra size just by looking at you. Expensive, but worth it.
(TOP LEFT): a dress from Aussie designer Collette Dinnigan at Elizabeth Charles; (BOTTOM LEFT): find upscale undies—and your correct bra size—at My Boudoir; (BELOW): Handbags from local label 49 square miles at Muse Ten.
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