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Destination: Embarcadero
Sure, everyone's flocking to Waterbar and Epic. But venture off the water's edge to find some of San Francisco's oldest streets and world-class restaurants. Shhhh, don't tell anyone.
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by Kyla Wazana
posted on July 18, 2008
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Credits: Stefanie Michejda
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While most neighborhoods trot out their secret selves at night, the Embarcadero holds a surprise around every corner, scattered among its landmarks. Every day at lunchtime, suited types emerge from SF's tallest buildings into the courtyards of the Embarcadero Center. Home to familiar favorites such as Banana Republic and Jos. A. Bank—
convenient for a noontime fashion run, in case you spilled mustard on your tie—the complex faces the jewel in the city's crown: the Ferry Building, which, since its reopening in 2003, has drawn tourists and food-obsessed locals with its growing cast of merchants and farmers. The latest buzz focuses on Chris Cosentino's new salumeria, Boccalone (3), which opened in June. A few blocks south, everyone's flocking to dining magnate Pat Kuleto's recently opened pair of restaurants, Waterbar and Epic, where top-notch cuisine meets dazzling views. But those willing to venture off the water's edge and into some of San Francisco's oldest streets will uncover quiet parks, neighborhood hangouts and world-class restaurants. Shhhh, don't tell anyone.
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| Eat + Drink |
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In the south end of the neighborhood, downtown techies grab lunch at Red's Java House (4), where the double cheeseburgers are cheap and the Bloody Marys are some of the best in town. Keep heading north and you'll pass Chaya, which attracts residents from the new surrounding high-rises with its gracious service and exceedingly good sushi. Check out $5 sushi rolls during weekday happy hour, 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Nearby, Ozumo also offers sushi, along with such trendy izakaya pub snacks as dohyo (tuna tartare) and futago (grilled wazu beef with spinach and eggplant). If you don't have a table already booked at Nancy Oakes' perennial classic, Boulevard, in the historic Audiffred building, ask for a seat at the dining counter facing the kitchen, and don't miss the Maryland soft-shell crab. Across the street in the chic Hotel Vitale, Americano (1) serves American cuisine with an Italian flourish, but it's the Friday-night happy hour on the patio that packs them in. Along with some of the city's most stunning murals, Rincon Center boasts a branch of Yank Sing (2), one of SF's best dim-sum merchants; on weekends, get there at 10 a.m. if you want to avoid a line. At the foot of the city's main artery, One Market is a major power-lunch spot that takes reservations for its popular chef's table at night.
Across Market, facing Embarcadero Plaza, Osha Thai has gorgeous nighttime views of the Ferry Building that make reservations a must: Watch the scenery over a glass of the signature Lava Guava cocktail and a plate of duck rolls. Twenty-something-year-old Fog City Diner still has a strong following with Telegraph Hill locals, who drop by for the outstanding brunch (try the famous red-curry mussel stew) or to snag a street-side cocktail table at dusk. Around the corner, more locals fleeing the pinstripe crowd hang out at Old Ship Saloon, where a modestly priced menu and solid beer collection are overseen by beloved bartender Johnny McAuliffe. The place to watch a game with your buddies is Grumpy's American Pub, a bar so refreshingly unpretentious, it's got that thing going where patrons stick dollar bills to the ceiling. Globe Restaurant, five blocks away up Battery, is the spot for a special date. While the new American menu is a standout any day of the week, Globe fans know to visit on Sundays for the prix-fixe market menu, which changes weekly. Snuggled between the Embarcadero and Battery, Kokkari Estiatorio, one of the city's few Greek restaurants, enjoys a well-earned reputation for spit-roasted meats served in its magnificent dining room; scan the bar for the mayor, who often dines here. Just up Battery lies the Basque-themed Piperade, which features the classic bacalao (salt cod) served with fresh oysters. Also make sure to try the Picon Punch, a heady mix of bitters, grenadine and brandy.
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| Explore |
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Back at the Embarcadero Center, film lovers count on the Embarcadero Center Cinema to run limited-release foreign and independent films; once you pull yourself out of that French-neorealist funk, brighten up your day downstairs with Yogen Früz—predecessor to the city's new fro-yo obsession. And when the concrete and skyscrapers get to you, lots of green oases await nearby. Levi's Plaza Park, for instance, starts at the bottom of Battery Street and stretches up to Union Street, ending in a dazzling waterfall in front of Il Fornaio. Slightly to the south and far more old-fashioned is Sydney G. Walton Square (5), a green hideaway bordered by high-rises. Our favorite secret spot is the curved walk behind the Golden Gateway Tennis and Swim Club, a slice of tranquillity behind a busy avenue.
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|
|
While most neighborhoods trot out their secret selves at night, the Embarcadero holds a surprise around every corner, scattered among its landmarks. Every day at lunchtime, suited types emerge from SF's tallest buildings into the courtyards of the Embarcadero Center. Home to familiar favorites such as Banana Republic and Jos. A. Bank—
convenient for a noontime fashion run, in case you spilled mustard on your tie—the complex faces the jewel in the city's crown: the Ferry Building, which, since its reopening in 2003, has drawn tourists and food-obsessed locals with its growing cast of merchants and farmers. The latest buzz focuses on Chris Cosentino's new salumeria, Boccalone (3), which opened in June. A few blocks south, everyone's flocking to dining magnate Pat Kuleto's recently opened pair of restaurants, Waterbar and Epic, where top-notch cuisine meets dazzling views. But those willing to venture off the water's edge and into some of San Francisco's oldest streets will uncover quiet parks, neighborhood hangouts and world-class restaurants. Shhhh, don't tell anyone.
|
| Eat + Drink |
|
In the south end of the neighborhood, downtown techies grab lunch at Red's Java House (4), where the double cheeseburgers are cheap and the Bloody Marys are some of the best in town. Keep heading north and you'll pass Chaya, which attracts residents from the new surrounding high-rises with its gracious service and exceedingly good sushi. Check out $5 sushi rolls during weekday happy hour, 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Nearby, Ozumo also offers sushi, along with such trendy izakaya pub snacks as dohyo (tuna tartare) and futago (grilled wazu beef with spinach and eggplant). If you don't have a table already booked at Nancy Oakes' perennial classic, Boulevard, in the historic Audiffred building, ask for a seat at the dining counter facing the kitchen, and don't miss the Maryland soft-shell crab. Across the street in the chic Hotel Vitale, Americano (1) serves American cuisine with an Italian flourish, but it's the Friday-night happy hour on the patio that packs them in. Along with some of the city's most stunning murals, Rincon Center boasts a branch of Yank Sing (2), one of SF's best dim-sum merchants; on weekends, get there at 10 a.m. if you want to avoid a line. At the foot of the city's main artery, One Market is a major power-lunch spot that takes reservations for its popular chef's table at night.
Across Market, facing Embarcadero Plaza, Osha Thai has gorgeous nighttime views of the Ferry Building that make reservations a must: Watch the scenery over a glass of the signature Lava Guava cocktail and a plate of duck rolls. Twenty-something-year-old Fog City Diner still has a strong following with Telegraph Hill locals, who drop by for the outstanding brunch (try the famous red-curry mussel stew) or to snag a street-side cocktail table at dusk. Around the corner, more locals fleeing the pinstripe crowd hang out at Old Ship Saloon, where a modestly priced menu and solid beer collection are overseen by beloved bartender Johnny McAuliffe. The place to watch a game with your buddies is Grumpy's American Pub, a bar so refreshingly unpretentious, it's got that thing going where patrons stick dollar bills to the ceiling. Globe Restaurant, five blocks away up Battery, is the spot for a special date. While the new American menu is a standout any day of the week, Globe fans know to visit on Sundays for the prix-fixe market menu, which changes weekly. Snuggled between the Embarcadero and Battery, Kokkari Estiatorio, one of the city's few Greek restaurants, enjoys a well-earned reputation for spit-roasted meats served in its magnificent dining room; scan the bar for the mayor, who often dines here. Just up Battery lies the Basque-themed Piperade, which features the classic bacalao (salt cod) served with fresh oysters. Also make sure to try the Picon Punch, a heady mix of bitters, grenadine and brandy.
|
|
| Explore |
|
Back at the Embarcadero Center, film lovers count on the Embarcadero Center Cinema to run limited-release foreign and independent films; once you pull yourself out of that French-neorealist funk, brighten up your day downstairs with Yogen Früz—predecessor to the city's new fro-yo obsession. And when the concrete and skyscrapers get to you, lots of green oases await nearby. Levi's Plaza Park, for instance, starts at the bottom of Battery Street and stretches up to Union Street, ending in a dazzling waterfall in front of Il Fornaio. Slightly to the south and far more old-fashioned is Sydney G. Walton Square (5), a green hideaway bordered by high-rises. Our favorite secret spot is the curved walk behind the Golden Gateway Tennis and Swim Club, a slice of tranquillity behind a busy avenue.
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print page
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