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Over the Rainbow At the hub of the free-flowing SF lifestyle, the Castro is as festive, communal and colorful as always. |
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posted on August 01, 2006 |
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When the enormous rainbow flag at the corner of Market and Castro comes into view, you know you’ve entered a different zone—a neighborhood where toddlers, tourists and trannies happily share the sidewalks seven days a week. Anchored by the iconic Castro Theatre, the Castro offers—despite its renegade reputation—some decidedly traditional charms: We’d venture to say it’s one of SF’s most stable districts. Loyal customers help long-term businesses thrive, houses remain unchanged (almost) since the days they were built and the vibe is heavily oriented toward large groups of friends who stroll, eat and drink together. Between the bustling foot traffic, bubble-proof real estate and rare sense of community, we’re thinking this “gay agenda” might be onto something. <b>SHOP</b> Shopping-wise, Castro Street is a big, bustling outdoor mall. Well, not exactly. But you really can get nearly everything you need between Market and 19th streets. For starters, stock up on eco-friendly skincare provisions at Bare Necessities, where Dr. Hauschka creams and Pre de Provence ointments share shelf space with Lanolin-Agg-Tval egg-white soaps. Don’t be confused by the rich smell of coffee wafting from the Castro Cheesery. Though it does stock 50 kinds of cheese, the tiny shop is also packed with 100 varieties of coffee, including such flavors as banana cream, apricot and mandarin orange. Both an old-school five-and-dime and a bona fide hardware shop, Cliff’s Variety is one of our favorite spots for browsing; it carries everything from yarn and fabric to faucets and Halloween masks. In the space formerly known as Friendly Spirits, Swirl sells wines handpicked and tasted by owner Jerry Cooper. It also turns into a wine bar at night, pouring samples from small producers around the world. There’s a Clobba on Castro and another just a few blocks away on Market, but each carries different merchandise, so you can stock up on affordable trends like striped camis and drapey cotton jersey tops. For below-the-ankle action, De La Sole’s tiny showroom is packed with some of our favorite brands: Seychelles, Jeffrey Campbell and Pony. Gallery Flux offers custom in-house jewelry design by 40 designers—many of them local. Engaged couples flock there for owner Tracy Rose’s “minniti rings” with interchangeable stones to suit your mood. <b>EAT & DRINK</b> You can begin or end your night at Crave—it’s open until 3 a.m. Thursdays through Saturdays. Start with the small plates downstairs, then enjoy drinks like the Orange Truffle Martini on a leather ottoman in the upstairs lounge. Owned by one of the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence, the landmark Café Flore feels like a crêperie/cafe by day but more like a bar at night. The menu is healthy comfort food, and the vine-covered patio feels European. More comfort is available across the street at Blue, where the big seller is mac-and-cheese and the prices nearly as cheap as if you cooked it yourself. Lime is a triple threat: a swank hangout at happy hour and on weekends, a cheery spot for snacks like grilled cheese with tomato dipping sauce and a Sunday brunch destination featuring $6 all-you-can-drink mimosas. For date night, get a res at the bustling but still romantic 2223. We’re in love with the Southern-fried chicken salad and the sour-cherry bread pudding. On sunny days, the wraparound balcony at Metro City Bar overflows with a diverse crowd of heteros and gay guys enjoying some of the best people watching in the city. Malacca takes fusion seriously, blending Asian, Indian and Mediterranean flavors into surprising dishes like seafood paella spiced with curry. Likewise Café, just opened in June, keeps it French and basic with a small menu of crepes, panini and croque monsieurs served in a simple, modern space. Nirvana is aptly named: Burmese noodle dishes and festive cocktails in the lush garden offer a slice of paradise. Another, more upscale people-watching spot is Catch, which serves accessible seafood dishes (all featuring wild fish) in a cozy dining room of brick and dark wood as well as a front patio. When the dessert urge hits, we head to Gelateria Naia. True to the Castro’s anything-goes attitude, it offers gelato in exotic flavors like black sesame, mojito, Thai iced tea and Nutella.
When the enormous rainbow flag at the corner of Market and Castro comes into view, you know you’ve entered a different zone—a neighborhood where toddlers, tourists and trannies happily share the sidewalks seven days a week. Anchored by the iconic Castro Theatre, the Castro offers—despite its renegade reputation—some decidedly traditional charms: We’d venture to say it’s one of SF’s most stable districts. Loyal customers help long-term businesses thrive, houses remain unchanged (almost) since the days they were built and the vibe is heavily oriented toward large groups of friends who stroll, eat and drink together. Between the bustling foot traffic, bubble-proof real estate and rare sense of community, we’re thinking this “gay agenda” might be onto something. |
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