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Bohemian Groove

Like any rebel with a cause, the Lower Haight’s steeped in outlaw allure and rakish charm.


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The Lower Haight’s nonconformist rep can be a double-edged sword, attracting some SFers to its funky restaurants and influential art galleries, while deterring others who still consider the blocks between Fillmore and Divis too grungy for comfort. But recent talk of a merchant’s association hints that things may be changing, if business owners such as Idle Hand Tattoo artist T. J. Hernandez have their way. “Our main focus is cleanliness and police presence,” says Hernandez. Landlords are quickly catching on, revamping their street-level vacancies in hopes of attracting new retailers—the old Horseshoe coffee house is one storefront that needs new life. In the meantime, here are some highlights of this diamond in the rough.

HAIGHT CUISINE
Ironically, Lo-Hai’s most high-end option, RNM, offers White Castle–like mini-burgers made with Niman Ranch beef, topped with caramelized onions and paired with crispy shoestring fries. Café International serves a cardamom- and anise-spiced cuppa Turkish joe that would make a dervish whirl. Culinary daredevils forgo the traditional beer sausage at Rosamunde for the spicy wild boar–and-apple sausage served on an organic white-flour roll. (On Tuesdays, and only on Tuesdays, Rosamunde adds a killer cheeseburger to the menu.) And like a good neighbor, the Toronado Pub is there, tapping nearly 50 domestic and international beers to go with your Rosamunde takeout, including Bitburger (a German pils) and De Koninck (a Belgian ale).

THE GOODS
At Zuzu’s Petals, you’ll find owner Jean Marx’s lush arrangement of hydrangeas, cockscombs, fresh herbs and scabiosas, which can dress up even the most dingy dining table. Doe, a self-proclaimed “miniature department store,” stocks everything from local designer Pellemelle’s studded suede belts to Jing Jang essential-oil lip balm. For beds so sleek they don’t need silk sheets, head to the neighborhood’s newest furniture retailer, one 36—home to David Pierce’s Ohio Design furniture collection. Lo-Hai’s art galleries are great places to accessorize a life less ordinary. Look for DJ Romanowski’s newest release at art collective Future Primitive Sound. You don’t have to visit Kyoto’s Pontocho district to glimpse a geisha. Acrylic-on-canvas paintings of the demure beauties by local grafitti artist Sam Flores are on sale at Upper Playground. Who can resist a store whose motto is “Decorate for less”? Not us. We love the mosaic hurricane lamp from Mickey’s Monkey—a psychedelic twist on burning the midnight oil.

THE WILD SIDE
Want to relive those bright college years? Idle Hand Tattoo is ideal for first-time inking: The high-quality custom work is done by professionals who value (and abide by) health codes. Commitment-phobes can still get all the glory without any of the pain at Life, which specializes in henna tattoos that last only one to two weeks. Call to make an appointment or pick up a DIY Earth Henna body painting kit, which includes reusable stencils, eucalyptus oil, henna solution and setting powder. Keeping up appearances may also require a new ’do. Edo Salon & Gallery offers everything from a face-framing touchup to hair extensions to corrective coloring. If you’ve been wondering about the Vapor Room, yes, it is exactly what you think it is: a medical marijuana club specializing in carcinogen-free inhalations. (Sorry—no recreational visitors allowed.)


HAIGHT CUISINE

  • Café du Soleil 200 Fillmore St. @ Waller, 415-934-8637

  • Café International 508 Haight St., 415-552-7390

  • RNM 598 Haight St., 415-551-7900

  • Rosamunde 545 Haight St., 415-437-6851

  • Toronado Beer 547 Haight St., 415-863-2276

    THE GOODS

  • Doe 629a Haight St., 415-558-8588

  • Future Primitive Sound 597 Haight St., 415-551-2328

  • Mickey’s Monkey 214 Pierce St. @ Haight, 415-864-0693

  • One 36 136 Fillmore St. @ Waller, 415-863-6446

  • Upper Playground 220 Fillmore St. @ Waller, 415-252-0144

  • Zuzu’s Petals 678 Haight St., 415-863-8199

    THE WILD SIDE

  • Edo Salon & Gallery 601 Haight St., 415-861-0131

  • Idle Hand Tattoo 575 Haight St., 415-552-4353

  • Life 604A Haight St., 415-252-9312

  • Vapor Room 609A Haight St.
  • The Lower Haight’s nonconformist rep can be a double-edged sword, attracting some SFers to its funky restaurants and influential art galleries, while deterring others who still consider the blocks between Fillmore and Divis too grungy for comfort. But recent talk of a merchant’s association hints that things may be changing, if business owners such as Idle Hand Tattoo artist T. J. Hernandez have their way. “Our main focus is cleanliness and police presence,” says Hernandez. Landlords are quickly catching on, revamping their street-level vacancies in hopes of attracting new retailers—the old Horseshoe coffee house is one storefront that needs new life. In the meantime, here are some highlights of this diamond in the rough.

    HAIGHT CUISINE
    Ironically, Lo-Hai’s most high-end option, RNM, offers White Castle–like mini-burgers made with Niman Ranch beef, topped with caramelized onions and paired with crispy shoestring fries. Café International serves a cardamom- and anise-spiced cuppa Turkish joe that would make a dervish whirl. Culinary daredevils forgo the traditional beer sausage at Rosamunde for the spicy wild boar–and-apple sausage served on an organic white-flour roll. (On Tuesdays, and only on Tuesdays, Rosamunde adds a killer cheeseburger to the menu.) And like a good neighbor, the Toronado Pub is there, tapping nearly 50 domestic and international beers to go with your Rosamunde takeout, including Bitburger (a German pils) and De Koninck (a Belgian ale).

    THE GOODS
    At Zuzu’s Petals, you’ll find owner Jean Marx’s lush arrangement of hydrangeas, cockscombs, fresh herbs and scabiosas, which can dress up even the most dingy dining table. Doe, a self-proclaimed “miniature department store,” stocks everything from local designer Pellemelle’s studded suede belts to Jing Jang essential-oil lip balm. For beds so sleek they don’t need silk sheets, head to the neighborhood’s newest furniture retailer, one 36—home to David Pierce’s Ohio Design furniture collection. Lo-Hai’s art galleries are great places...


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