Day at the Beach

San Francisco’s soul may very well be located on the strip of Columbus between Broadway and Filbert.

Anchored by legendary bars and the iconic City Lights Bookstore, North Beach has perhaps the most lively personality of any SF neighborhood. It’s been home at various times to Barbary Coast strip clubs, Italian-American immigrants, the first inklings of gay culture and the Beat generation. While a plethora of Italian restaurants (we love tiny L’Osteria del Forno) continues to woo tourists, the neighborhood nevertheless is evolving, as evidenced by a crop of new nightclubs and non-Italian eateries. Broadway has seen two of the biggest changes: Old-timer Enrico’s shut down in November (possibly to reopen under new ownership come spring), and soon after, parking on Broadway was banned on weekend nights, making it easier to stroll around what’s always been ground zero for SF’s bohemian life.

Landmark Tommaso’s was once called the best pizzeria in America by People. Try the clam and garlic pie, and don’t miss the “chocolate salami” dessert: a rolled chocolate cake with raspberry dipping sauce. NB’s other killer pizza can be found at Cinecitta (pictured right): a thin, Roman-style crust topped with inventive combos like tuna, olives and capers. Joe DiMaggio’s Italian Chophouse recently moved in where mainstay Fior d’Italia used to be (Fior’s relocated to the corner of Mason and Chestnut). Try the bone-in rib eye with potato gratin and seasonal vegetables, or sip a “strawberry ’n balsamictini” in the Marilyn room, a lounge area dedicated to North Beach native DiMaggio’s best gal. Mangarosa’s “Italian with a Brazilian twist” cuisine includes an amazing steak réchaud (that is, finished at your table on a hot iron grill) and, of course, authentic caipirinhas. The cozy atmosphere is popular with locals and a certain political bigwig named Gavin.Amid the Italian restaurants stands Maykadeh, one of only two Persian restaurants in SF.        "NORTH BEACH IS  CLOSE TO EVERYTHING  via foot, bus, ferry, BART. But why leave? It’s so thick with SF culture." —Steve Michael Yates, North Beach resident for four years

For more than 20 years, its staunchly traditional fare has drawn crowds, who come for the ethereal kebabs: joojeh (chicken marinated in saffon and lime), koobideh (ground beef and lamb) and soltani (filet mignon). Giordano Bros. All-in-One Sandwiches on Columbus makes the sandwich to end all sandwiches: your choice of meat with provolone, olive oil, vinegary coleslaw and French fries, all between two slices of Italian bread. Citizen Thai & the Monkey divides its attention between fine Thai dining (Citizen Thai, pictured left) and small portions of Bangkok street food (the Monkey); order the signature pumpkin curry and the “large dancing prawns.” Lots of folks haven’t heard of the House on Grant, but locals know it’s where chef Larry Tse turns out delicious Asian fusion that gets consistent raves from regulars.

At Dolce on Broadway (pictured left), you’ll find a dress code, a doorman who makes sure there are plenty of ladies on the floor and DJs who keep the party going into the wee hours with a mix of Top 40, rock and mash-ups. Enveloped in sexy candlelight, Impala oozes Vegasness. Owned by the guys who brought Suite One8One (and bottle service) to SF, this self-proclaimed “Mexiluxe” restaurant has big tables and cozy booths that are perfect for large parties. After 11, the place turns into a nightclub, complete with go-go dancers. Another plus: the complimentary cotton candy served after dinner. Over on Grant, in the old La Bodega space, Mojito harks back to North Beach’s jazzy history. Co-owned by Alistair Monroe, the founder of the North Beach Jazz Festival, this laid-back Latin-American restaurant and bar specializes in live music and—you guessed it—mojitos. With its cozy couches and high ceilings, Amante on Green is a great date spot, and the mirrors surrounding the bar are helpful for spotting potential dates if you’re flying solo. Savoy-Tivoli has remained a neighborhood favorite for an entire century (Beach Blanket Babylon premiered here in 1974). Chill out on the heated patio or pose with friends in the digital photo booth. Over on Powell, Woody Zips is a sports bar by day, dressed-down lounge by night. Big-screen TVs pair well with the homemade buffalo wings, “deconstructed” corn dogs and the extensive tequila selection. Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Café’s location on the corner of Columbus and Union makes it a tourist magnet, but the former mafioso haunt retains its authenticity thanks to its unpretentious atmo and top-notch people-watching. Take a trip back to the old country at Steps of Rome Caffe on Columbus with homemade tiramisu, cappuccino topped off with a heart of foam and plenty of good-looking young Italian men.

Many of SF’s fashionistas come to North Beach for its one-of-a-kind boutiques. Ooma (Objects of My Affection) on Grant sports a colorful, constantly changing inventory, including cocktail dresses by Wendy Hil, jewelry by local designer Tracey Matthews and vintage-inspired coats by owner Kate Logan. She even sells fashion tape to keep plunging necklines in place. Crossover lines from labels like Rogan, Edun and Paul Smith allow couples to shop together at AB Fits’ original North Beach locale. Its impressive denim selection includes Habitual and Notify, and the store also carries local designers Skaen and Josh Podoll. Not only will the staff help you find the perfect pair of jeans for your body type, they’ll hem them for free. “Feminine” is the watchword at Delilah Crown (pictured above), a serene little jewel box of a shop on Green Street featuring floaty dresses, soft tees and cushy sweaters, many of them designed by owner Kristina De Pizzol and other locals. Top off your look at the newest branch of Goorin Bros. Hats. Open since May, they sell exclusive designs you won’t find anywhere else, like of-the-minute fedoras in tweed and canvas. Alla Prima Fine Lingerie (pictured left) carries high-end lines, including La Perla for smaller busts, Dolce & Gabbana and Prima Donna for fuller figures. (FYI: If you’re like most women, you’re probably wearing the wrong size.) It also carries the Jimmyjane collection of vibrators, blindfolds and scented candles that double as massage lotion (after the wax cools off—really!). While thumbing through vinyls at 101 Music, you may well run into Sonoma resident Tom Waits, who’s buddies with the owner. (Across the street, 101 Basement boasts a selection of 50,000 “used” records. The store doesn’t sell new music, but many of its albums have never been opened.) For the big kid who has everything, Double Punch (top left) on Powell offers edgy toys by local designers like Koz!k. Check out the GET SMALL San Francisco series, for which local artists Jeremy Fish, Sam Flores, Coro and David Choe each designed a toy packaged in miniature Muni buses. Pamper yourself at MadKat on Grant with the Pureology line of organic, vegan hair products. Upstairs, you can find candles and body washes by Queenz, while the Gehwol Med Salve for Cracked Skin is perfect for soothing your feet after a long day of shopping.

Anchored by legendary bars and the iconic City Lights Bookstore, North Beach has perhaps the most lively personality of any SF neighborhood. It’s been home at various times to Barbary Coast strip clubs, Italian-American immigrants, the first inklings of gay culture and the Beat generation. While a plethora of Italian restaurants (we love tiny L’Osteria del Forno) continues to woo tourists, the neighborhood nevertheless is evolving, as evidenced by a crop of new nightclubs and non-Italian eateries. Broadway has seen two of the biggest changes: Old-timer Enrico’s shut down in November (possibly to reopen under new ownership come spring), and soon after, parking on Broadway was banned on weekend nights, making it easier to stroll around what’s always been ground zero for SF’s bohemian life.

Landmark Tommaso’s was once called the best pizzeria in America by People. Try the clam and garlic pie, and don’t miss the “chocolate salami” dessert: a rolled chocolate cake with raspberry dipping sauce. NB’s other killer pizza can be found at Cinecitta (pictured right): a thin, Roman-style crust topped with inventive combos like tuna, olives and capers. Joe DiMaggio’s Italian Chophouse recently moved in where mainstay Fior d’Italia used to be (Fior’s relocated to the corner of Mason and Chestnut). Try the bone-in rib eye with potato gratin and seasonal vegetables, or sip a “strawberry ’n balsamictini” in the Marilyn room, a lounge area dedicated to North Beach native DiMaggio’s best gal. Mangarosa’s “Italian with a Brazilian twist” cuisine includes an amazing steak réchaud (that is, finished at your table on a hot iron grill) and, of course, authentic caipirinhas. The cozy atmosphere is popular with locals and a certain political bigwig named Gavin.Amid the Italian restaurants stands Maykadeh, one of only two Persian restaurants in SF.        "NORTH BEACH IS  CLOSE TO EVERYTHING  via foot, bus, ferry, BART. But why leave? It’s so thick with SF culture." —Steve Michael Yates, North Beach resident for four years

For more than 20 years, its staunchly traditional fare has drawn crowds, who come for the ethereal kebabs: joojeh (chicken marinated in saffon and lime), koobideh (ground beef and lamb) and soltani (filet mignon). Giordano Bros. All-in-One Sandwiches on Columbus makes the sandwich to end all sandwiches: your choice of meat with provolone, olive oil, vinegary coleslaw and French fries, all between two slices of Italian bread. Citizen Thai & the Monkey divides its attention between fine Thai dining (Citizen Thai, pictured left) and small portions of Bangkok street food (the Monkey); order the signature pumpkin curry and the “large dancing prawns.” Lots of folks haven’t heard of the House on Grant, but locals know it’s where chef Larry Tse turns out delicious Asian fusion that gets consistent raves from regulars.

At Dolce on Broadway (pictured left), you’ll find a dress code, a doorman who makes sure there are plenty of ladies on the floor and DJs who keep the party going into the wee hours with a mix of Top 40, rock and mash-ups. Enveloped in sexy candlelight, Impala oozes Vegasness. Owned by the guys who brought Suite One8One (and bottle service) to SF, this self-proclaimed “Mexiluxe” restaurant has big tables and cozy booths that are perfect for large parties. After 11, the place turns into a nightclub, complete with go-go dancers. Another plus: the complimentary cotton candy served after dinner. Over on Grant, in the old La Bodega space, Mojito harks back to North Beach’s jazzy history. Co-owned by Alistair Monroe, the founder of the North Beach Jazz Festival, this laid-back Latin-American restaurant and bar specializes in live music and—you guessed it—mojitos. With its cozy couches and high ceilings, Amante on Green is a great date spot, and the mirrors surrounding the bar are helpful for spotting potential dates if you’re flying solo. Savoy-Tivoli has remained a neighborhood favorite for an entire century (Beach Blanket Babylon premiered here in 1974). Chill out on the heated patio or pose with friends in the digital photo booth. Over on Powell, Woody Zips is a sports bar by day, dressed-down lounge by night. Big-screen TVs pair well with the homemade buffalo wings, “deconstructed” corn dogs and the extensive tequila selection. Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Café’s location on the corner of Columbus and Union makes it a tourist magnet, but the former mafioso haunt retains its authenticity thanks to its unpretentious atmo and top-notch people-watching. Take a trip back to the old country at Steps of Rome Caffe on Columbus with homemade tiramisu, cappuccino topped off with a heart of foam and plenty of good-looking young Italian men.

Many of SF’s fashionistas come to North Beach for its one-of-a-kind boutiques. Ooma (Objects of My Affection) on Grant sports a colorful, constantly changing inventory, including cocktail dresses by Wendy Hil, jewelry by local designer Tracey Matthews and vintage-inspired coats by owner Kate Logan. She even sells fashion tape to keep plunging necklines in place. Crossover lines from labels like Rogan, Edun and Paul Smith allow couples to shop together at AB Fits’ original North Beach locale. Its impressive denim selection includes Habitual and Notify, and the store also carries local designers Skaen and Josh Podoll. Not only will the staff help you find the perfect pair of jeans for your body type, they’ll hem them for free. “Feminine” is the watchword at Delilah Crown (pictured above), a serene little jewel box of a shop on Green Street featuring floaty dresses, soft tees and cushy sweaters, many of them designed by owner Kristina De Pizzol and other locals. Top off your look at the newest branch of Goorin Bros. Hats. Open since May, they sell exclusive designs you won’t find anywhere else, like of-the-minute fedoras in tweed and canvas. Alla Prima Fine Lingerie (pictured left) carries high-end lines, including La Perla for smaller busts, Dolce & Gabbana and Prima Donna for fuller figures. (FYI: If you’re like most women, you’re probably wearing the wrong size.) It also carries the Jimmyjane collection of vibrators, blindfolds and scented candles that double as massage lotion (after the wax cools off—really!). While thumbing through vinyls at 101 Music, you may well run into Sonoma resident Tom Waits, who’s buddies with the owner. (Across the street, 101 Basement boasts a selection of 50,000 “used” records. The store doesn’t sell new music, but many of its albums have never been opened.) For the big kid who has everything, Double Punch (top left) on Powell offers edgy toys by local designers like Koz!k. Check out the GET SMALL San Francisco series, for which local artists Jeremy Fish, Sam Flores, Coro and David Choe each designed a toy packaged in miniature Muni buses. Pamper yourself at MadKat on Grant with the Pureology line of organic, vegan hair products. Upstairs, you can find candles and body washes by Queenz, while the Gehwol Med Salve for Cracked Skin is perfect for soothing your feet after a long day of shopping.

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