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View to the East
Chinatown is a neighborhood of many facets: tourist destination, tchotchke mecca, cultural gathering spot and foodie heaven.
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by Nicole Beckley
posted on July 01, 2007
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| Enter the gates to Chinatown at the intersection of Bush and Grant, and you’re transported to a world of delicious dim sum, stocked-to-the-brim jewelry stores, antiques dealers and, of course, touristy T-shirt and souvenir shops. But this is also a thriving neighborhood, where locals gather at Portsmouth Square to play mah-jongg and to debate the merits of the new 17-story City College branch at the corner of Kearny and Washington, a building that’s been in the works for nearly a decade and is due to begin construction next year. Thanks to its standing as the first and largest Chinatown in the country, ours will be the only US location to see the Olympic torch on its way to Beijing next April—a fitting honor for the neighborhood that for more than 150 years has made our city the gateway to the Pacific Rim. |
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You will never go hungry in Chinatown. At the Vietnamese diner Golden Star, a glass of chanh muôi (“salty lemonade”) is just the thing to chase down imperial rolls, chicken salad or one of the signature bowls of beef pho. And you won’t go broke either: Lunch specials, such as lemongrass pork chops or curry beef stew over rice, run just a few bucks at Hing Lung, while cheap dumplings are the specialty at Dol Ho, where tasty sesame buns and all manner of dim sum more than make up for the down-market decor. Given that the center of the dining room turns into a dance floor four nights a week (Tuesday through Friday), you’d hardly guess that New Asia packs in lunchtime patrons who can’t wait to order dim sum from the carts that zigzag between the tables. At Jai Yun, the prix-fixe menu reflects whatever chef Chai Ji Nei finds at the market each day; look for Shanghai specialties such as braised pigs’ legs and poussin with taro balls. R&G Lounge serves a dual purpose where Chinatown meets the Financial District. The casual downstairs offers cheap (but good) Cantonese; head to the Zen-like upstairs dining room for salt-and-pepper quail, salmon-avocado egg rolls or deep-fried prawns with honey walnuts. The atmo at Sam Wo is straight out of a noir movie. Enter through the kitchen, ascend a narrow stairway to the second floor and watch as your soup is pulled up via dumbwaiter. No foodie tour of Chinatown would be complete without a stop at Yuet Lee, a favorite haunt of local big-name chefs. The sea bass and huge crabs swimming in large tanks signal how fresh the seafood is. Skip dessert, though, and head to YooGo Gelato, where coconut, cookies-and-cream and other popular flavors share space with more adventurous ones: taro, black sesame, avocado or Budweiser—which is much, much better than it sounds. Trust us.
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TOP: Making crispy duck at New Asia
MIDDLE: Tempting sesame buns at Dol Ho
BOTTOM: Chocolate for the kids, rum raisin for mom at YooGo
photography by Stefanie Michejda
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| The aptly named Canton Bazaar is a three-level repository of imports, stocking everything from rosewood armoires and colorful pillow covers to beaded slippers, silk kimonos and countless gift items made of silk jacquard. Just across from the famed Hotaling Building, which once housed the West Coast’s largest liquor repository, you’ll find Peter Pap Oriental Rugs, where designers head for Persian, Indian and Turkish rugs made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Han Palace features high-end antiques for bona fide Asiaphiles: ceramic pots, stone figures of men on horses and even a 17th century cast-iron bell. Still more antiques can be found at Relin, whose offerings run the gamut from teapots and small boxes to large stone carvings. Inside, there’s also a jewelry shop, Hoang Jewelry Co., where you can pick up handmade turquoise baubles. At V&M Fine Jewelry and Gifts, you can get pearl, jade and cinnabar pieces custom-made to your size and specifications. One thing Chinatown’s not known for is high fashion, but fSignal is an unexpected find for women’s clothes, featuring embellished leather boots from Hong Kong and lightweight cotton dresses from Korea. And if you feel like flying a kite, take a peek inside Chinatown Kite Shop, where tigers, eagles, flamingos, pirate ships and superheroes are just waiting for a trip to Crissy Field. Of course, on your way home, you need to take advantage of the produce that comes through this part of town each day. We like the display at Chung Hing Produce, bursting with crisp snow peas, firm leeks and beautiful melons. Inside, you’ll find dry goods, sauces, bean curd in brine and locally made noodles from Hong Kong Noodle Company. |
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LEFT: Lotus root at Chung Hing Produce. RIGHT: Parade of parasols at Canton Bazaar.
photography by Stefanie Michejda.
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"I’M ALWAYS SURPRISED BY THE QUALITY OF THE SEAFOOD. YOU SEE A LOT OF CHEFS THERE ALL THE TIME … any dishes with the Manila clams are excellent."
——Laurent Manrique, corporate executive chef at Aqua, about Yuet Lee
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Tucked away in Ross Alley, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory is little more than a four-woman operation. Pick up a bag of chocolate fortune cookies or even X-rated ones. The Great China Herb Co. is stocked with such good-for-you treats as red dates, sea coconut, lotus seed and teas for enhancing hair and cleansing the liver. An on-site certified acupuncturist and herbalist scribbles prescriptions daily. It may be famous for its egg-custard tarts, but Golden Gate Bakery also offers trays of coconut macaroons, moon cakes, lotus-seed-paste cake and chicken pies. (But seriously, try the egg-custard tart.) If you feel the need to get centered, make your way to the Imperial Tea Court, a Chinatown institution, and snag a spot at one of the beautiful wooden tables for an afternoon of sipping and relaxing. If you need something stiffer than tea, we suggest the special Mai Tai at Li Po Lounge, whose red doors and gilded walls are reminiscent of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Try to get the bartender to tell you the secret ingredient.
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TOP: Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory
MIDDLE: a pile of fortunes
BOTTOM: lining up at Golden Gate Bakery
photography by Stefanie Michejda
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eat
Dol Ho 808 Pacific St. 415-392-2828 Golden Star 11 Walter U. Lum Pl.
415-398-1215 Hing Lung 674 Broadway 415-398-8838 Jai Yun 923 Pacific St. 415-981-7438 New Asia 772 Pacific St. 415-391-6666 R&G Lounge 631 Kearny St. 415-982-7877 Sam Wo 813 Washington St. 415-982-0596 YooGo Gelato 601 Broadway 415-398-2996 Yuet Lee 1300 Stockton St. 415-982-6020
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more
Golden Gate Bakery 1029 Grant Ave. 415-781-2627 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory 56 Ross Alley 415-781-3956 Great China Herb Co. 857 Washington Ave. 415-982-2195 Imperial Tea Court 1411 Powell St. 415-788-6080 Li Po Lounge 916 Grant Ave. 415-982-0072
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shop
Canton Bazaar 616 Grant Ave. 415-362-5750 Chinatown Kite Shop 717 Grant Ave. 415-989-5182 Chung Hing Produce 1300 Powell St. 415-693-9634 fSignal 863 Clay St. 415-399-9393 Han Palace 1201 Powell St. 415-788-5338 Peter Pap Oriental Rugs 470 Jackson St. 415-956-3300 Relin 597 Grant Ave. 415-362-3785 V&M Fine Jewelry and Gifts 953 Grant Ave. 415-362-7782
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| Enter the gates to Chinatown at the intersection of Bush and Grant, and you’re transported to a world of delicious dim sum, stocked-to-the-brim jewelry stores, antiques dealers and, of course, touristy T-shirt and souvenir shops. But this is also a thriving neighborhood, where locals gather at Portsmouth Square to play mah-jongg and to debate the merits of the new 17-story City College branch at the corner of Kearny and Washington, a building that’s been in the works for nearly a decade and is due to begin construction next year. Thanks to its standing as the first and largest Chinatown in the country, ours will be the only US location to see the Olympic torch on its way to Beijing next April—a fitting honor for the neighborhood that for more than 150 years has made our city the gateway to the Pacific Rim. |
 |
| eat |
|
|
You will never go hungry in Chinatown. At the Vietnamese diner Golden Star, a glass of chanh muôi (“salty lemonade”) is just the thing to chase down imperial rolls, chicken salad or one of the signature bowls of beef pho. And you won’t go broke either: Lunch specials, such as lemongrass pork chops or curry beef stew over rice, run just a few bucks at Hing Lung, while cheap dumplings are the specialty at Dol Ho, where tasty sesame buns and all manner of dim sum more than make up for the down-market decor. Given that the center of the dining room turns into a dance floor four nights a week (Tuesday through Friday), you’d hardly guess that New Asia packs in lunchtime patrons who can’t wait to order dim sum from the carts that zigzag between the tables. At Jai Yun, the prix-fixe menu reflects whatever chef Chai Ji Nei finds at the market each day; look for Shanghai specialties such as braised pigs’ legs and poussin with taro balls. R&G Lounge serves a dual purpose where Chinatown meets the Financial District. The casual downstairs offers cheap (but good) Cantonese; head to the Zen-like upstairs dining room for salt-and-pepper quail, salmon-avocado egg rolls or deep-fried prawns with honey walnuts. The atmo at Sam Wo is straight out of a noir movie. Enter through the kitchen, ascend a narrow stairway to the second floor and watch as your soup is pulled up via dumbwaiter. No foodie tour of Chinatown would be complete without a stop at Yuet Lee, a favorite haunt of local big-name chefs. The sea bass and huge crabs swimming in large tanks signal how fresh the seafood is. Skip dessert, though, and head to YooGo Gelato, where coconut, cookies-and-cream and other popular flavors share space with more adventurous ones: taro, black sesame, avocado or Budweiser—which is much, much better than it sounds. Trust us.
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TOP: Making crispy duck at New Asia
MIDDLE: Tempting sesame buns at Dol Ho
BOTTOM: Chocolate for the kids, rum raisin for mom at YooGo
photography by Stefanie Michejda
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| |
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| shop |
| The aptly named Canton Bazaar is a three-level repository of imports, stocking everything from rosewood armoires and colorful pillow covers to beaded slippers, silk kimonos and countless gift items made of silk jacquard. Just across from the famed Hotaling Building, which once housed the West Coast’s largest liquor repository, you’ll find Peter Pap Oriental Rugs, where designers head for Persian, Indian and Turkish rugs made in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Han Palace features high-end antiques for bona fide Asiaphiles: ceramic pots, stone figures of men on horses and even a 17th century cast-iron bell. Still more antiques can be found at Relin, whose offerings run the gamut from teapots and small boxes to large stone carvings. Inside, there’s also a jewelry shop, Hoang Jewelry Co., where you can pick up handmade turquoise baubles. At V&M Fine Jewelry and Gifts, you can get pearl, jade and cinnabar pieces custom-made to your size and specifications. One thing Chinatown’s not known for is high fashion, but fSignal is an unexpected find for women’s clothes, featuring embellished leather boots from Hong Kong and lightweight cotton dresses from Korea. And if you feel like flying a kite, take a peek inside Chinatown Kite Shop, where tigers, eagles, flamingos, pirate ships and superheroes are just waiting for a trip to Crissy Field. Of course, on your way home, you need to take advantage of the produce that comes through this part of town each day. We like the display at Chung Hing Produce, bursting with crisp snow peas, firm leeks and beautiful melons. Inside, you’ll find dry goods, sauces, bean curd in brine and locally made noodles from Hong Kong Noodle Company. |
 |
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LEFT: Lotus root at Chung Hing Produce. RIGHT: Parade of parasols at Canton Bazaar.
photography by Stefanie Michejda.
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|
"I’M ALWAYS SURPRISED BY THE QUALITY OF THE SEAFOOD. YOU SEE A LOT OF CHEFS THERE ALL THE TIME … any dishes with the Manila clams are excellent."
——Laurent Manrique, corporate executive chef at Aqua, about Yuet Lee
|
| more |
 |
Tucked away in Ross Alley, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory is little more than a four-woman operation. Pick up a bag of chocolate fortune cookies or even X-rated ones. The Great China Herb Co. is stocked with such good-for-you treats as red dates, sea coconut, lotus seed and teas for enhancing hair and cleansing the liver. An on-site certified acupuncturist and herbalist scribbles prescriptions daily. It may be famous for its egg-custard tarts, but Golden Gate Bakery also offers trays of coconut macaroons, moon cakes, lotus-seed-paste cake and chicken pies. (But seriously, try the egg-custard tart.) If you feel the need to get centered, make your way to the Imperial Tea Court, a Chinatown institution, and snag a spot at one of the beautiful wooden tables for an afternoon of sipping and relaxing. If you need something stiffer than tea, we suggest the special Mai Tai at Li Po Lounge, whose red doors and gilded walls are reminiscent of Grauman’s Chinese Theatre. Try to get the bartender to tell you the secret ingredient.
 |
TOP: Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory
MIDDLE: a pile of fortunes
BOTTOM: lining up at Golden Gate Bakery
photography by Stefanie Michejda
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eat
Dol Ho 808 Pacific St. 415-392-2828 Golden Star 11 Walter U. Lum Pl.
415-398-1215 Hing Lung 674 Broadway 415-398-8838 Jai Yun 923 Pacific St. 415-981-7438 New Asia 772 Pacific St. 415-391-6666 R&G Lounge 631 Kearny St. 415-982-7877 Sam Wo 813 Washington St. 415-982-0596 YooGo Gelato 601 Broadway 415-398-2996 Yuet Lee 1300 Stockton St. 415-982-6020
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more
Golden Gate Bakery 1029 Grant Ave. 415-781-2627 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory 56 Ross Alley 415-781-3956 Great China Herb Co. 857 Washington Ave. 415-982-2195 Imperial Tea Court 1411 Powell St. 415-788-6080 Li Po Lounge 916 Grant Ave. 415-982-0072
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shop
Canton Bazaar 616 Grant Ave. 415-362-5750 Chinatown Kite Shop 717 Grant Ave. 415-989-5182 Chung Hing Produce 1300 Powell St. 415-693-9634 fSignal 863 Clay St. 415-399-9393 Han Palace 1201 Powell St. 415-788-5338 Peter Pap Oriental Rugs 470 Jackson St. 415-956-3300 Relin 597 Grant Ave. 415-362-3785 V&M Fine Jewelry and Gifts 953 Grant Ave. 415-362-7782
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print page
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