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Profiles

Power List: Eat + Drink

Here's our take on influence in SF. Agree with us or argue with us—just keep reading.


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Credits: Marty Blake


Michael Pollan
52, Author of the upcoming In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto (Penguin), professor of journalism at UC Berkeley.


Why: A 21st-century Sinclair Lewis, Pollan has, through his writings (see: An Omnivore’s Dilemma), helped open America’s eyes to its food’s origins.


“One thing that I’ve noticed, going around the country, is that there are always a few ten-gallon hats in the audience, and they come up to me and say that [“Power Steer” in The New York Times Magazine] in 2002 is what put their business on the map—ever since that article, they’ve been able to make a living selling grass-fed beef. But what I had to say about grass-fed beef occupied two paragraphs of that article, and those two paragraphs were at the end of an 8,000-word story, so that meant people got to the end of the article. How gratifying that was. I think you have more authority on food issues writing from the Bay Area—look at who the [editors in New York] hire when they want someone to write about food. They hire writers from here. On the other hand, since we have it so easy here, eating locally and finding grass-fed beef, you have to do a reality check. Some places are a food desert. We are so spoiled. That’s in my head when I’m writing.”


Web Exclusive: Read more of this Q+A below

 

Kimberly Egan
50, CEO, the Center for Culinary Development


Why: The Center, a consulting firm working for such brands as Burger King and Kraft, taps into the expertise of San Francisco’s top chefs (most of whom prefer to remain anonymous).


“You know, it’s funny—we forget we know what we know here. Stuff that seems like old news, we bring it up to a client and they’re like, Wow what’s that? The ciabatta breads that are showing up in the quick-service restaurants— [the Center] was really a part of that. We took [clients] to different bakeries, like Acme and Grace Baking, and restaurants that had wonderful bread baskets—this was new news to our clients. Now you see ciabatta on the Wendy’s menu and the Jack in the Box menu. It’s like seeing your baby make it to the stage.”

 

The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture Managers of the Ferry Plaza farmers Market since 1999


Why: The gatekeeper for the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market has become a national role model for its stringent sustainable practices and education programs— and, by default, created a meeting place for the food elite. The customer base—including the city’s best chefs and top food writers—matches the some 75 farmers and 30 vendors; from Star Route to Andante Dairy, some have risen to celebrity status themselves

 

Pat Kuleto
62, restaurateur and restaurant designer


Why: This fall, Kuleto opened Nick’s Cove, on Tomales Bay, at the same time Farallon and Jardinière—two of the restaurants Kuleto co-owns—were celebrating 10-year anniversaries. He’s thinking even bigger for 2008, with Epic Roasthouse and Waterbar both slated for January openings. Who else would dare build neighboring restaurants, from the ground up, on prime waterfront Embarcadero real estate? Epic is right.

 

Thomas Keller
52, chef and restaurateur


Why: No one American chef has such international name recognition—or the honor of simultaneously holding three Michelin stars at two restaurants (plus another star at the Bouchon in Napa Valley), something only one other chef in the world (Alain Ducasse) can claim. Just the thought of nabbing a reservation at the French Laundry in Yountville or Per Se in NYC continues to make fine-dining junkies giddy.

 

Jess Jackson
77, founder and owner of Jackson Family Wines


Why: With California’s top family-owned wineries— think Robert Mondavi and Stag’s Leap—gobbled up by giant multinationals, one family’s wine empire stands tall. Not only did Jackson create America’s Chardonnay juggernaut with Kendall-Jackson, he has shrewdly fought for wine quality with all of his brands while other companies cut corners. Note: He’s also bought up 12,000 acres of California’s best wine lands.

 

Paula Jones
42, director of San Francisco Food Systems


Why: The director of this nonprofit funded in part by the Department of Public Health, Jones has set herself firmly in the civic space, helping to write policy for the city’s food systems, which include everything from hospital food to school lunches. (Thanks to her, every SF farmers market accepts food stamps.) Jones’ ultimate challenge? Balancing the city’s desire to be sustainable with its duty to feed the needy.


Additional Q+A with Michael Pollan

What’s it like being a writer here?
You’re definitely preaching to the choir, and the choir can either snooze or do something.… But I’m a writer. I’m not an activist. The goal is really to enlighten readers, not to change the world. And satisfy my own curiosity. That’s an important part of what I do.

Who do you write for?
I think we all write for a handful of people whose opinions we care about, and they tend to be friends and other writers. My father will say to me, “Why are you using these words that I have to look up in the dictionary?” I realize I wasn’t thinking about him. I think you write for a smaller circle, and you’re delighted when it turns out to be a bigger circle.

Do you find yourself feeling the pressure to live by your words?
Do I feel self-conscious? Well, soon after I got to Berkeley, long before The Ominvore’s Dilemma [was published], I was shopping at the Berkeley Bowl, and someone tapped on my shoulder and said, “I’m watching Michael Pollan doing the groceries”—just as I was reaching for some sort of Fruity Pebbles. I was like, this town is too small.

But I’ve changed the way I’ve eaten as I’ve learned things. [My family] joined a CSA; I don’t eat industrial meats. These were strategies I devised for myself so you’re not agonizing every single minute. But you know, I’m not a fanatic about it. I got a call from the Times last week and they asked, “What are you going to give out for Halloween?” [I said,] Snickers bars, Mars bars. I think they were hoping I’d be making up some special non-fructose-corn-syrup treat. I remember being a kid, and I really didn’t want an apple. Indulgence is fine. One day a year is when people eat this crap.

What do you enjoy about your position?
The influence I’ve had on my students. Some of them have emerged into [being] good writers. One thing I see myself doing is training a generation of people to get beyond the Wednesday section fluff piece.


Michael Pollan
52, Author of the upcoming In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto (Penguin), professor of journalism at UC Berkeley.


Why: A 21st-century Sinclair Lewis, Pollan has, through his writings (see: An Omnivore’s Dilemma), helped open America’s eyes to its food’s origins.


“One thing that I’ve noticed, going around the country, is that there are always a few ten-gallon hats in the audience, and they come up to me and say that [“Power Steer” in The New York Times Magazine] in 2002 is what put their business on the map—ever since that article, they’ve been able to make a living selling grass-fed beef. But what I had to say about grass-fed beef occupied two paragraphs of that article, and those two paragraphs were at the end of an 8,000-word story, so that meant people got to the end of the article. How gratifying that was. I think you have more authority on food issues writing from the Bay Area—look at who the [editors in New York] hire when they want someone to write about food. They hire writers from here. On the other hand, since we have it so easy here, eating locally and finding grass-fed beef, you have to do a reality check. Some places are a food desert. We are so spoiled. That’s in my head when I’m writing.”


Web Exclusive: Read more of this Q+A below

 

Kimberly Egan
50, CEO, the Center for Culinary Development


Why: The Center, a consulting firm working for such brands as Burger King and Kraft, taps into the expertise of San Francisco’s top chefs (most of whom prefer to remain anonymous).


“You know, it’s funny—we forget we know what we know here. Stuff that seems like old news, we bring it up to a client and they’re like, Wow what’s that? The ciabatta breads that are showing up in the quick-service restaurants— [the Center] was really a part of that. We took [clients] to different bakeries, like Acme and Grace Baking, and restaurants that had wonderful bread baskets—this was new news to our clients. Now you see ciabatta on the Wendy’s menu and the Jack in the Box menu. It’s like seeing your baby make it to the stage.”

 

The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture Managers of the Ferry Plaza farmers Market since 1999


Why: The gatekeeper for the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market has become a national role model for its stringent sustainable practices and education programs— and, by default, created a meeting place for the food elite. The customer base—including the city’s best chefs and top food writers—matches the some 75 farmers and 30 vendors; from Star Route to Andante Dairy, some have risen to celebrity status themselves

 

Pat Kuleto
62, restaurateur and restaurant designer


Why: This fall, Kuleto opened Nick’s Cove, on Tomales Bay, at the same time Farallon and Jardinière—two of the restaurants Kuleto co-owns—were celebrating 10-year anniversaries. He’s thinking even bigger for 2008, with Epic Roasthouse and Waterbar both slated for January openings. Who else would dare build neighboring restaurants, from the ground up, on prime waterfront Embarcadero real estate? Epic is right.

 

Thomas Keller
52, chef and restaurateur


Why: No one American chef has such international name recognition—or the honor of simultaneously holding three Michelin stars at two restaurants (plus another star at the Bouchon in Napa Valley), something only one other chef in the world (Alain Ducasse) can claim. Just the thought of nabbing a reservation at the French Laundry in Yountville or Per Se in NYC continues to make fine-dining junkies giddy.

 

Jess Jackson
77, founder and owner of Jackson Family Wines


Why: With California’s top family-owned wineries— think Robert Mondavi and Stag’s Leap—gobbled up by giant multinationals, one family’s wine empire stands tall. Not only did Jackson create America’s Chardonnay juggernaut with Kendall-Jackson, he has shrewdly fought for wine quality with all of his brands while other companies cut corners. Note: He’s also bought up 12,000 acres of California’s best wine lands.

 

Paula Jones
42, director of San Francisco Food Systems


Why: The director of this nonprofit funded in part by the Department of Public Health, Jones has set herself firmly in the civic space, helping to write policy for the city’s food systems, which include everything from hospital food to school lunches. (Thanks to her, every SF farmers market accepts food stamps.) Jones’ ultimate challenge? Balancing the city’s desire to be sustainable with its duty to feed the needy.


Additional Q+A with Michael Pollan

What’s it like being a writer here?
You’re definitely preaching to the choir, and the choir can either snooze or do something.… But I’m a writer. I’m not an activist. The goal is really to enlighten readers, not to change the world. And satisfy my own curiosity. That’s an important part of what I do.

Who do you write for?
I think we all write for a handful of people whose opinions we care about, and they tend to be friends and other writers. My father will say to me, “Why are you using these words that I have to look up in the dictionary?” I realize I wasn’t thinking about him. I think you write for a smaller circle, and you’re delighted when it turns out to be a bigger circle.

Do you find yourself feeling the pressure to live by your words?
Do I feel self-conscious? Well, soon after I got to Berkeley, long before The Ominvore’s Dilemma [was published], I was shopping at the Berkeley Bowl, and someone tapped on my shoulder and said, “I’m watching Michael Pollan doing the groceries”—just as I was reaching for some sort of Fruity Pebbles. I was like, this town is too small.

But I’ve changed the way I’ve eaten as I’ve learned things. [My family] joined a CSA; I don’t eat industrial meats. These were strategies I devised for myself so you’re not agonizing every single minute. But you know, I’m not a fanatic about it. I got a call from the Times last week and they asked, “What are you going to give out for Halloween?” [I said,] Snickers bars, Mars bars. I think they were hoping I’d be making up some special non-fructose-corn-syrup treat. I remember being a kid, and I really didn’t want an apple. Indulgence is fine. One day a year is when people eat this crap.

What do you enjoy about your position?
The influence I’ve had on my students. Some of them have emerged into [being] good writers. One thing I see myself doing is training a generation of people to get beyond the Wednesday section fluff piece.


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